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Material service

Fabric and trim sourcing

Sourcing to a specification rather than to a price list — weight, stretch, recovery and hand checked against what the garment actually has to do.

What this is

Fabric is the largest single cost in most garments and the single biggest cause of a style failing. A fabric that is correct on paper — right composition, right weight — can still be wrong on the body because its recovery, drape or surface behaviour does not suit the construction.

We source against the construction. That means specifying the fabric in terms of what the garment needs, not just what it is: a four-way stretch for a bodycon with enough recovery to hold its shape, a crepe with the weight to carry a pleated drape without collapsing.

Sourcing runs from the stock fabric library for speed, or to specification where the requirement is specific. In both cases the buyer approves a physical swatch, and the approved swatch is retained as the production standard.

Labelled fabric sample cards laid over a material specification sheet, with trim, ribbon and cord swatches beside them

Material service

Fabric library

Fabric families we source routinely

Sourcing starts either from a requirement or from a family you already buy. These are the families that come up most often in womenswear programmes. Within each one, weight, stretch, recovery and finish are specified against the garment rather than picked from a catalogue.

CottonPoplin, lawn, twill and voile. Stable, breathable and predictable to grade — the base for shirt and day dresses.
LaceCorded, chantilly and stretch laces for occasion and bridal work. Usually the piece that sets the price of the garment.
ChiffonLight and fluid for tiered and draped skirts. Needs lining and a clean seam finish, or it reads thin.
Tencel (lyocell)Soft, fluid and drapey with better recovery than plain viscose. Increasingly the choice for daywear.
SilkCharmeuse, crepe de chine and habotai for eveningwear. Specified by weight and finish, not by name alone.
OrganzaCrisp and translucent. Used for structure, overlay and volume rather than for the body of a garment.
Knitted jerseySingle and double jersey, rib and ponte. The base for bodycon and stretch daywear.
VelvetCrush, stretch and devoré. Pile direction has to be respected in cutting, which affects marker efficiency.
CrepeThe workhorse for drape: heavy enough to carry a pleat without collapsing under its own weight.
ViscoseFluid drape at a low cost. Recovery is limited, so it is chosen for silhouette rather than for fit.
WoolSuiting and coating weights for tailoring, where recovery and pressing matter more than hand.
Cashmere and cashmere blendsCoating and knitwear at the top of a range. Composition is confirmed against the mill's documents for the order.
HerringboneA woven pattern rather than a fibre — a classic choice for tailored coats and suiting.
PU and coated fabricsLeather-look outerwear at a non-leather cost and weight. Breathability depends on the backing cloth.
TweedTextured wool or wool-blend suiting with surface interest. Heavier, and it needs a compatible lining.

These names describe the fabric family, not a fibre certification. Where the composition is itself a selling point — cashmere content, wool percentage, recycled fibre — it is confirmed against the mill's own documents for that specific order rather than assumed from the family name.

Who it is for

This is the right route if…

Brands specifying a fabric they cannot source

You know the requirement but not where to buy it at a workable price and minimum.

Brands whose fabric keeps failing in production

Recurring problems with recovery, shrinkage or colour consistency usually trace back to specification rather than the mill.

Brands consolidating suppliers

You want fabric, trims and production handled against one specification so responsibility is not split.

What you receive

Deliverables, not promises

  • Physical swatches for every fabric and trim option proposed
  • A specification stating weight, composition, stretch and recovery where relevant
  • Retained approved swatches as the production standard
  • Colour approval against a physical reference, not a screen

How the process works

Stage by stage

  1. Requirement definition

    We translate the construction need into a fabric specification — weight, composition, stretch, recovery, hand and finish.

  2. Sourcing and shortlisting

    Options are sourced from the stock library or to specification, and shortlisted against the requirement and the target price.

  3. Swatch approval

    You receive physical swatches. Colour and hand are approved physically, because screens misrepresent both.

  4. Testing where required

    Where the market or the buyer requires it, fabric is tested before bulk booking rather than after.

  5. Booking and retention

    Fabric is booked against the confirmed quantity and a retained swatch is kept as the production standard.

Typical requirements

What the work depends on

  • The garment's functionWhat the fabric has to do: stretch, hold shape, drape, take beading, survive a specific wash.
  • Target price per metreSourcing without a price ceiling produces options you cannot use.
  • QuantityFabric minimums are usually the binding constraint on a small run.
  • Colour referenceA Pantone reference, a physical swatch, or a garment to match.

What to send us

Your briefing checklist

Send this and the first quotation will be accurate Anything missing turns into a question later, which is slower for both of us.
  • The style the fabric is for, and what it needs to do
  • Your target price per metre and the quantity required
  • Colour references, physically if possible
  • Any testing or compliance requirements for your market
  • Whether you have an existing supplier we should work with

Commercial terms

What we can publish now

Verified figures are stated. Anything that depends on your specification is confirmed against it rather than quoted as a headline number.

FacilityFactory-direct OEM & ODM
Facility certificationsISO 9001 · OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 · amfori BSCI-audited · SGS-inspected
Quotation responsewithin 24 hours
Minimum — standard programsTypically from 100 pieces per design, with 100–200 pieces per colour, on standard womenswear programs
Sample lead timeTypically 7–10 days from tech pack approval on standard programs
Sample feeConfirmed at quotation
Bulk lead timeTypically 15–25 days after sample approval, depending on season, quantity and construction
Inspection standardSix-step inspection (material → cutting → sewing → finishing → pressing → final AQL)
How your minimum and schedule are setConfirmed per order — category, fabric, construction, customisation level, quantity and production route all move the figure.

How to request a quotation

Tell us what the fabric has to do, not only what it has to be. That is the difference between a swatch that works and one that has to be re-sourced.

Related services

Usually used together

Related

Product Development

The stage between an idea and a producible garment: construction decisions, material selection, pattern drafting, sample rounds and a locked specification you can repeat.

Related

Sampling

A sample is not a preview.

Related

Quality Control

Checks at cutting, sewing and finishing — because a defect found at the end of a run has already been repeated across the whole run.

Related

ODM Development

Develop a womenswear range from agreed design concepts or adaptable base styles.

Start a project

Ready to brief us?

Send what you have. We will tell you what is missing, what it will cost and how long it will take.

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