What 'thinking sustainably' means at Lagos Fashion Week
Lagos - Four days before the Éki kéré show at Lagos Fashion Week_ sewing machines were still whirring in the workshop of this popular Nigerian brand. The studio is located in the heart of the cultural and economic capital of Africa's most populous country.
On that day_ brand founder Abasiekeme Ukanireh gathered models and seamstresses for the final fittings. This was in preparation for the flagship event in African fashion_ which ran from Wednesday to Sunday evening.
“Every year_ as a designer_ I always try to push the boundaries a little further in terms of sustainability_” Ukanireh_ 35_ explained to AFP. In 2025_ she noted a greater emphasis on using indigo_ as well as a dye made from “kola nuts”.
Her brand_ launched in 2020_ is known for using raffia and buttons made from nut shells in its designs. During her show on Sunday_ around 30 models walked in outfits inspired by traditional wedding ceremonies in Ikot Ekpene. Nicknamed “the raffia city_” it is located in the southeastern state of Akwa Ibom_ where the designer is from. The usual lace was replaced with raffia_ cardboard and linen.
Encouraging designers
Abasiekeme Ukanireh stated that Lagos Fashion Week encourages young designers “to think sustainably.” She added_ “they know that to succeed_ or even just to take part_ they have to adopt a responsible approach”.
Omoyemi Akerele founded this major event for fashion enthusiasts in 2011. In 2018_ she set up an incubator programme called “Green Access.” The programme scouts_ trains and supports young African designers_ providing them with the tools to develop sustainable collections.
“Even if sustainability is at the heart of their design practice_ it's about encouraging them to be more responsible. This involves rethinking their choices at every stage of the creative process and understanding that it starts with the materials_” Akerele explained to AFP.
With Lagos Fashion Week_ she wants to show that “African creativity has its place on the world stage.” She also believes it is “a catalyst for cultural pride and sustainable systemic change”.
The founder of Lagos Fashion Week encourages not only designers to adopt sustainable fashion but also consumers. This is notably through her Swapshop initiative_ which allows people to exchange clothes they no longer wear for other items.
“We all have clothes at home that we no longer wear. It's great to be able to swap them with people as stylish as those who attend this type of event_” enthused Danielle Chukwuma. Chukwuma is a 43-year-old retailer who came to see several shows at the Federal Palace Hotel in Lagos.
Overconsumption
She discovered the creations of Nigerian designers_ as well as talents from other African countries. One such talent was the Indo-Kenyan designer Ria Ana Sejpa of the brand Lilabare_ who took part in Lagos Fashion Week for the third time.
“I think Lagos is the fashion capital of Africa. Fashion is part of the culture here. People are proud of their style; they like to stand out and are not afraid to be bold or glamorous_” the 34-year-old told AFP.
During her show_ she presented 25 outfits in shades of beige_ white_ brown_ orange and green. They were created from pineapple and banana fibres_ as well as coffee grounds.
“It is essential to consider our ecosystem_ the assets of the environment and the people around you. You must also make conscious decisions at every stage of the creation process_” said Ria Ana Sejpa.
This view is shared by Nigerian designer Florentina Hertunba_ 31_ founder of the Hertunba brand_ which is making its mark on her country's fashion scene.
She claims to use traditional Nigerian fabrics_ such as Aso Oke and Akweté_ as well as other local products. She also uses biodegradable packaging and limits waste.
“This piece is recycled. An old fabric was turned into yarn and then reused to create it_” explained the young woman_ pointing to a patterned black dress in her Lagos workshop.
For her_ sustainable fashion can only become mainstream if consumers follow suit.
“One of the biggest dangers is this culture of overconsumption_ where people are constantly buying new clothes for every occasion. Sustainable fashion is making positive progress_ but so is overconsumption_” she worried.
The global rise of fast fashion is generating a growing amount of textile waste. According to the United Nations_ 92 million tonnes of textile waste are produced each year. Africa receives millions of tonnes of this waste annually_ which ends up being burned in open landfills.
The fashion industry contributes to 10 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions.