These young designers teach you how to sew your own clothes again
AMFI alumnus Tijn Roozen devised a business in sewing kits that allow people to make their own stylish garments. The kits of the start-up NAAI include a clothing design by Tijn himself_ a piece of fabric_ yarn_ matching zip or buttons_ and all other necessities. “We have all forgotten how to do this_ and with it_ our relationship with clothing has also changed.”
The raw - often fossil - materials for fashion are running out. And besides_ we don't exactly handle our clothing sustainably; it has to be cheap and delivered quickly.
At the same time_ many people are becoming increasingly aware that they would like this to be different_ thinks Tijn_ who graduated in Fashion & Design at AMFI (AUAS). The budding entrepreneur is responding to that awareness_ along with three other former AMFI students. Together_ they launched the start-up NAAI_ which allows people to relearn the skill of making their own clothes.
Shops disappeared
“The inspiration for this actually comes from my great-grandparents_” Tijn explains. “They had a shop where they sold things to make clothes. I wanted to bring something similar into these times_ from the mindset that if people make their own clothes_ they are more appreciative of them_ and also more inclined to repair them.”
Only now_ most people no longer have the knowledge or skills to work with fabric themselves_ Tijn observed. Shops selling fabrics and yarns are also disappearing from the streets.
And in the 1980s_ magazines with sewing and knitting patterns were hugely popular; nowadays_ they are only actively used in a certain niche. “The older magazines have acquired a bit of a hippie image; it doesn't work for the new generation.”
Easy for beginners
NAAI's kit for making your own garment is therefore low-threshold_ even for those who do not yet have the necessary skills. Tijn: “It's like a Hello Fresh package; all the ingredients are included.”
Because if you are a beginner_ it can take quite a bit of perseverance before you arrive at a creation. “Last year_ I had promised to make a dress for my sister. Then you start buying fabric_ which is kept in the cupboard for a few months_ while you still have to make or find patterns after that.
You don't have to take those steps with this kit; you put together a garment from NAAI in an afternoon.”
Creative hobbies increasingly popular
NAAI also ties in with the trend of creative hobbies – since corona_ interest in crafts such as crocheting and knitting has been growing. In these busy times_ people like being able to clear their heads_ Tijn observes.
“With social media and AI_ you are always on. People are very consciously looking to regain their autonomy over how they consume_ and over how they organise their leisure time. You really have to make a conscious choice to stand still.” That is why crafts and creative cafés are on the rise_ also among young people.
Creative sewing still lags somewhat behind other hobbies_ such as crocheting. However_ more and more sewing machines are being sold_ a growth that is expected to continue in the coming years.
Change
Breaking the cycle of our current handling of clothes and (ultra)fast fashion must be done by the industry_ Tijn believes. For now_ the initiatives to do things differently come mainly from the bottom up.
“It is then convenient to use the tools that the industry already has. And in addition_ it is essential for sustainable initiatives to align well with what consumers want or need.”
“I did an internship with Ronald van der Kemp_ who works with deadstock or leftover materials. Personally_ I think working with sustainable materials should be a matter of course.”
Behavioural change
The ultimate goal of NAAI is behavioural change. "So that we regain that other connection with clothing_ which has gradually disappeared. Reconnecting people with their clothes.”
About NAAI and the 10K incubator programme
Tijn graduated from AMFI last academic year and has been working on the start-up NAAI for about a year now_ together with three other AMFI alumnae: Jinte van den Berg_ Lola Noteboom and Joanne Olinga. “Because Jinte does the design at G-star_ she brings a lot of technical knowledge_ that's very nice_” Tijn says.
Currently_ the entrepreneurs are following the 10K programme of the Venture Centre of AUAS_ where they receive supervision to take their start-up one stage further. They are currently working on validation – testing how this catches on – and finalising their business plan.
Coming soon in new sewing magazine
A new magazine_ Shopwork_ aimed at young people and the current era and with instructions and patterns to make designer garments_ will soon be released. It also features an interview with NAAI's founders.