The rise of unconventional venues in Parisian fashion shows
Paris – Empty offices and disused car parks are the new playgrounds for Parisian fashion shows. Favoured for their minimalist aesthetic_ creative freedom_ and attractive pricing_ these raw spaces are increasingly popular venues.
“There has been a real trend in recent years to use raw spaces with nothing but load-bearing walls_” Rod Reynolds_ a venue scout and head of the company Records Collection_ told AFP.
Since 2017_ he has sourced unconventional locations for houses such as Chloé_ Victoria Beckham_ and Stella McCartney. The brand Dries Van Noten is one of his loyal clients.
On Thursday evening_ during men's fashion week_ the Belgian brand presented its collection on the first floor of a building under construction in south Paris_ a venue sourced by Reynolds.
Just a few days prior_ the space was an empty 1_500 cubic metre platform_ 80 metres long and five metres high. It featured exposed concrete beams_ damaged walls_ and a cracked floor.
On the day of the show_ it was a different story. Large black curtains were hung on each side; one concealed the windows_ while the other marked out the backstage area. Two rows of chairs lined the runway_ with spotlights on the ceiling.
The irregularities in the floor_ however_ remained. “Mind the holes!” warned one of the guests.
Aesthetic and efficiency
Since Covid-19_ demand for these types of venues has “exploded_” stated Reynolds. His colleague Benjamin Roussel_ founder of Subspaces which was established in 2024_ shares this view.
Last June_ he made a car park awaiting redevelopment available for Israeli designer Hed Mayner's show.
According to them_ the success of these austere backdrops lies in both their aesthetic and their efficiency. “With this very minimalist imagery_ the creations are truly enhanced_” analysed Reynolds.
“The contrast between the very clean and the slightly gritty_ raw element is what makes it appealing_” added Roussel.
They also offer a practical advantage_ as locations without pre-existing decor have fewer significant constraints.
These venues are also more cost-effective. “Compared to the Palais Brongniart_ which hosts the Hermès show on Saturday and has a similar capacity of 500 to 600 people_ we are half the price_” the specialist detailed.
Rates range from 8_000 to 13_000 euros (9_485 to 15_409 dollars) per day_ excluding production costs_ “but ultimately_ it remains less expensive_” he confirmed.
"Fundamental theatricality"
For the past two and a half years_ the property company Covivio has been renting out buildings that are under construction or unoccupied_ as a way to add value to them while they await redevelopment.
Dries Van Noten was its first client. In April 2023_ the Belgian designer_ who has since departed the brand_ visited one of its buildings. He was immediately taken with a former building belonging to the telecoms group Orange.
He decided to “create a collection entirely inspired by the building_s facade and to stage his June show there_” recalled Céline Leonardi_ the property company's marketing and customer experience director.
Since then_ the company has opened other sites_ such as a former postal sorting centre built in the 1900s in the heart of Paris_ which has hosted 23 shows in a year and a half.
French brand AMI held a concert there for its January 2025 show. Lacoste installed sand_ tennis nets_ and giant screens during Paris Fashion Week in October 2024.
For sociologist Émilie Coutant_ this trend is part of a continuum. “Margiela held a show in a metro station_ and John Galliano on the roundabouts of the Pont Alexandre-III. The venue has always been a centrepiece of the show_” she highlighted.
Fashion shows are based on a “fundamental theatricality” that compels designers to “constantly reinvent by seeking out new locations_” she noted.
This dynamic is further removed from the luxury powerhouses. While Matthieu Blazy for Chanel recently took over the New York subway for its Métiers d'art show_ its haute couture will return to the Grand Palais next week. At Dior_ Jonathan Anderson will present his collection in the gardens of the Musée Rodin_ just as his predecessor Maria Grazia Chiuri did.