The men_s runway season casts an uneasy mood_ and long shadow of Valentino
This season_s official rotation_ beginning with Pitti Uomo in Florence and followed by Milan and Paris_ arrived fragmented. Major houses including Gucci and Fendi opted out of Milan_s menswear calendar entirely_ choosing instead to present co-ed collections during the women_s season or via alternative formats. JW Anderson was also notably absent_ as Jonathan Anderson shifts his focus to Dior.
The result was a pared-back Milan_ heavy on presentations and satellite moments but light on the kinds of runway statements that typically anchor the week. Editors and buyers expressed frustration at the dilution of impact_ particularly with the international contingent already in Italy for Pitti Uomo.
Valentino_s passing cast a long shadow
Mid-season_ the fashion world came to a standstill with the death of Valentino Garavani at the age of 93. His passing triggered an outpouring of tributes_ culminating in a funeral in Rome attended by industry leaders_ cultural figures and longtime collaborators. It was a rare collective pause in an otherwise relentless fashion cycle.
Valentino was a founder-designer who never relinquished control of his vision_ nor deviated from his lifelong pursuit of beauty_ elegance and refinement. In a period dominated by creative churn and brand repositioning_ his legacy feels increasingly singular.
Market context: Growth amid uneven demand
Against this backdrop of calendar shifts and creative tension_ the larger luxury menswear market continues to grow_ even if unevenly. According to recent industry projections_ the global luxury menswear segment is expected to have reached approximately 48.6 billion dollars in 2025_ with a compound annual growth rate of around 4.3 percent from 2022 to 2025. Demand is being fuelled by increased digital penetration and heightened consumer interest in personalised and exclusive fashion experiences.
Separate data on the broader luxury apparel sector shows that men_s luxury apparel accounted for more than half of total revenue in 2025_ reinforcing the strategic importance of the male consumer to the high-end fashion ecosystem.
Paris: Creativity meets uncertainty
Against this economic and emotional backdrop_ Paris Men_s Fashion Week unfolded with ambition but also tension_ as houses grappled openly with questions of identity_ relevance and commercial reality.
At Dior_ Jonathan Anderson_s second menswear outing sharply divided opinion. Conceptual and highly styled_ the collection underscored Anderson_s intellectual approach_ yet left some critics and clients questioning what Dior menswear now fundamentally represents. Online commentators rated the show unevenly_ reflecting a widening disconnect between fashion_s internal discourse and broader market sentiment. Blame it on the yellow wigs.
Industry insiders note the mounting pressure on houses to balance creative expression with commercial performance_ especially as logo-driven and ready-to-wear categories continue to underpin revenue in a luxury market where apparel and accessories remain core drivers of growth.
Milan_s missed opportunity
In Milan_ Prada stood out as one of the few houses injecting genuine excitement into the week. Elsewhere_ the absence of major players and the migration of co-ed collections to the womenswear season left the week feeling underwhelmed.
With editors_ buyers and international press already in Italy for Pitti Uomo_ many questioned why Milan has not capitalised more effectively on that momentum.
Casting_ backlash and cultural blind spots
At Dolce & Gabbana_ a parade of exclusively white models provoked immediate backlash_ reigniting debates around representation and cultural awareness. In an industry increasingly attentive to diversity_ such casting decisions now land as dissonance rather than provocation.
Clothes for real lives
In Paris_ designers such as Dries Van Noten_ Lemaire and Rick Owens delivered precisely what their respective audiences expect: collections rooted in clear identity and wearability. Lemaire_ in particular_ continues to excel with garments grounded in real-world needs_ creating an ongoing counterpoint to more theatrical runway moments.
Where menswear stands now
In an era shaped by political pressure_ economic unevenness and creative fatigue_ the appetite for merely fantasy garments appears to be waning. Buyers and consumers alike are signalling a renewed emphasis on clarity_ longevity and relevance in menswear_ priorities that align with broader luxury market dynamics where apparel demand remains a stabilising force.
This season has underscored a quiet shift: concept alone is no longer enough. As the industry reflects on the life and legacy of Valentino Garavani_ a designer who never needed disruption to remain relevant_ menswear finds itself at a crossroads. The rhythm is uneven_ the mood cautious_ and the question lingering over every runway is no longer what is new_ but what is worth making and wearing now.