The Amsterdam-based designer with a vision for individuality: meet Tessa Koops

For over a decade_ Dutch fashion designer Tessa Koops has been producing expressive womenswear that blends bold prints with feminine silhouettes. Known in the Netherlands for her signature use of colour and nostalgia-infused designs_ Koops has built a loyal following of confident women who embrace personality in their wardrobes. Now_ as the brand explores international growth_ including markets like the US_ Germany and Spain_ the designer_s philosophy of individuality takes on broader relevance.

At her boutique on Herenstraat in Amsterdam_ things are anything but dull. Between walls of vivid prints and vintage furnishings_ Koops is right at home_ accompanied by her three cats_ Floyd_ Tartufo and Babybel. FashionUnited sat down with the designer to learn more about her brand_s essence_ her creative process_ and her outlook on fashion_s evolving landscape.

"The word 'joyful' may seem lighthearted_ but I've noticed it genuinely makes people happy_" she begins. "Clothing influences your state of mind; it can amplify your mood and how you want to express yourself." This philosophy forms the foundation of her designs: clothing that is not only beautiful but also contributes to how you interact with the world and how you feel.

A brand for bold_ strong women

Koops' collections don't focus on microtrends_ yet they remain contemporary. "Fashion moves_ and I move too." She emphasizes that her designs are intended for women who dare to deviate from the crowd and stay true to their own style. "I don't make bold clothing_ but my clothing is worn by bold_ strong women_" she explains. "Individuality and personality are woven into my designs. Women feel confident in my clothing because they're not necessarily following the latest trends_ but rather enhancing their own style."

In a world where androgynous and unisex fashion are gaining ground_ Koops maintains a balance between femininity and contrasts. She also sees her designs as complements to other_ more understated brands and draws inspiration from the 1970s_ an era that_ according to her_ carries a true "retro vibe" and nostalgia. This is reflected in the prints and silhouettes she creates: from flared trousers and vests to puff-sleeved blouses and long wrap dresses that women can wear with both edge and chic. "Women of today love to wear sturdy boots with a dress_ instead of elegant pumps. That's something I always keep in mind when designing. For me_ the dress is and always will be an eternal hit."

The creative process: fabric and print

For Koops_ the creative process almost always begins with the print or the quality of the fabric. "It almost always starts with the print_" she explains. "When I see a print_ I think about which garment it suits. The fabric determines whether it becomes a flowing dress or a bold jacket." Her collection consists of a mix of her own designed prints and carefully selected patterns from print houses within Europe. These prints are specially recolored_ altered_ adapted_ and enlarged to give them a unique character. "Each season_ I work with color palettes that appeal to me_ such as warm tones in the fall or fresh blue-green combinations for summer_" she says.

Koops also still loves working on samples herself_ often cutting her own to see how fabrics work together_ making the process very hands-on. "I don't work with technical drawings; I design by feel. Working from a drawing is often not a circular process_ while a woman has three-dimensionality." This further adds a personal touch: "I think the personal aspect is very important. Personal attention in all areas. I didn't choose to call my brand something like 'Bombari_' for example. My name is my brand."

Future Plans: Innovation and international expansion

What does the future hold for Tessa Koops? "We are working on expansion in Europe_ with a focus on Germany and Spain. It's a steady process because I believe in sustainable growth. America remains a dream_ a flagship boutique in New York and Los Angeles would be amazing."

With future collections_ Tessa draws inspiration from Spain_ a country that inspires her both professionally and personally. The Spanish lifestyle and culture_ where _flaneren_ (a Dutch term for strolling to see and be seen) is an art in itself_ perfectly aligns with the DNA of her designs: bold_ yet refined_ and always with boutique flair. In addition to international ambitions_ a social and sustainable vision also plays an increasingly important role in her brand: "Not so much in my designs as in the attitude towards clothing_ how we deal with it."

Tessa Koops remains true to her vision: designing clothes for women who want to embrace life with individuality and joy. Her mix of vibrant prints_ flowing fabrics_ and personal approach makes her brand popular with both retailers and consumers. "With my brand_ I hope to offer women_ and mostly creative women_ a sense of playfulness. Playfulness can continue to surprise you_ and gives you character."