Sustainable sneakers: Materials_ production_ and the future of footwear
The footwear sector_ including sneakers_ is incorporating sustainability initiatives_ as these products are now a constant in fashion collections and are increasingly worn for various occasions. Sneakers are the focus of research and experimental projects by material producers for sustainable_ recyclable_ or partially recyclable components.
Saverio Lapini_ co-founder and chief executive officer of Ollum srl_ an Arezzo_ Italy-based consultancy specializing in corporate sustainability_ discussed the current state of sustainability in sneaker production with FashionUnited.
Production of sneakers in the sustainability landscape
The sneaker segment traditionally uses synthetic materials such as rubber or polyester_ derived from petroleum. Companies are now transitioning to natural materials like hemp yarns and alternatives to conventional plastic materials_ which include compostable_ recyclable_ and biobased options_ due to sustainability requirements.
Change in the production approach
Natural materials are not always suitable for sneaker applications due to durability and mechanical quality requirements. Biobased rubbers are created from natural materials through processes similar to those used for synthetic materials. This allows companies to use existing machinery for production
Effectiveness of this system from an environmental point of view
Sneakers produced using these methods can have an environmental impact approximately one third less than conventional ones. However_ two issues exist.
1. Problems with this system
The alternative materials may have a shorter lifespan compared to traditional materials. This means that while the shoe's immediate impact decreases_ its overall lifespan is not extended_ which does not change the production model.
2. Right path for sustainability
The use of natural materials is a step in the right direction. Subsequent steps involve focusing on shoe durability and the after-sales phase. Many brands do not offer repair services for sneakers_ despite consumer willingness to repair them to extend their life.
Customer's desire to change their look
Fashion brands have a role in making the "old and repaired" aesthetic appealing. Presenting patched garments on the catwalk could advance this concept.
Pricing of sustainable accessories
Natural materials for sustainable sneakers generally cost more due to a lack of economies of scale. Producers_ primarily in Italy's Marche region and Southeast Asia_ operate in niche markets that are not subject to the same price competition as other suppliers. However_ material costs account for approximately 20 percent of the final sneaker price.
Economies of scale through increased quantities of sustainable sneakers
The reality is that many companies currently offer only one sustainable model or line making it difficult to scale up.
Lack of vision on sustainability
Sustainability initiatives often lack a long-term vision_ culture_ and expertise within companies. This can lead to prepared young professionals leaving organizations when they observe this absence of vision.