SPFW N60 celebrates 30 years by championing Brazilian identity
On October 20_ the 30th anniversary edition of São Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW) concluded with the Lino Villaventura show at the Pavilhão das Culturas Brasileiras in Ibirapuera Park_ São Paulo. The venue_ nicknamed PACUBRA_ shared the spotlight with the Iguatemi Shopping theatre and several historic locations. These included the Mário de Andrade Library_ where João Pimenta presented his collection; the Julio Prestes Station_ which hosted Glória Coelho; and the Museum of the Portuguese Language_ the setting for Ronaldo Fraga's show. Trianon Park on Paulista Avenue hosted Flávia Aranha's collection. Campo de Marte was the stage for the Forca Studio show. The Museum of Contemporary Art at the University of São Paulo was the venue for Gustavo Silvestre_ and the Competition gym hosted Uó by Marcelo SommeR. Angela Brito presented her show at the Centro Cultural São Paulo.
This edition's collections demonstrated technical refinement. They definitively incorporated regional handicrafts used creatively to evoke Brazilian culture. In the photos and text below_ FashionUnited highlights the key moments.
Fabric and print composition
The catwalk featured cut-outs in different fabrics and denim with various washes. Leather with inserts of different shades was also prominent. There was even a combination of several second-hand pieces forming new outfits_ where the focus was on repurposing.
Crochet
Forgotten in past decades_ crochet has not only been revived but has gained prominence. It appeared in complete looks or as subtle details. Combined with embroidery or used as a supporting element_ it was always presented luxuriously. This was especially true when paired with bugle beads_ beads and pieces made from a wide variety of materials.
Strips_ rouleaux_ yo-yos and patchwork
What was once just a detail has become a fundamental element. Loose strips offered different textures; rouleaux formed the shape of a jumpsuit; and giant yo-yos were joined together to create a dress. Everything is possible in this universe_ including the combination of denim squares to form a complete look. For eveningwear_ gathered fabrics created unusual volumes.
Lace and macramé
Regional lace appeared on garments_ sometimes as a discreet detail and at other times more prominently. In some looks_ it only detailed hems and borders_ but it was present in almost every collection. Macramé featured in a few collections_ usually in details.
Embroidery_ ruching and appliqués
This season_ embroidery was exuberant_ appearing on brightly coloured jackets_ with stones and even wood. Some designers worked with ruching and pleats. Appliqués of small flowers added lightness to more fluid shapes in lightweight fabrics and a different texture to leather. Brazilian stones appeared on the straps of beachwear pieces.
Tailoring
Precise tailoring appeared on the catwalks in wide_ comfortable forms. It was colourful or exuberant_ with feather appliqués combined with sparkle. At times_ it was used functionally with zipped sections_ allowing it to be transformed into another garment.
Orange takes centre stage
After several seasons where vibrant tones were dominated by red_ orange has arrived in various shades. It was present in most collections_ bringing its positive and sunny vibes. We have selected two total orange looks to illustrate this.
