Romantic gowns_ dramatic tailoring: Highlights of LFW according to Harrods_ buying director
With London Fashion Week SS26 officially wrapped_ attention now turns to buyers across retail as they review the collections at hand and decide where to go from here. Among those is Simon Longland_ director of buying for fashion at department store giant Harrods_ who shared his impressions of the week and reflected on London_s evolving position on the global fashion calendar.
On favourite collections
For his top collections_ Longland highlighted Erdem and Roksanda as standout brands_ both of which happened to be celebrating their 20th anniversary this season. While Roksanda_s collection “stood out as a true celebration of her signatures”_ defined by dramatic tailoring and elegant gowns_ Erdem “reaffirmed his exceptional skill in form_ fabrication and workmanship"_ according to Longland.
Indeed_ to inform much of this collection_ Roksanda looked to her archives for inspiration. The Margot dress from her SS12 collection_ for example_ was revived in orange and blue duchesse satin_ while her Cataline dress from AW22 returned in painterly prints. Erdem_ on the other hand_ drew inspiration from Hélène Smith_ the late 19th-century Swiss medium who once believed she had served as a member of the French court and as an Indian princess in past lives. With Smith in mind_ Erdem set out to embrace contradictions between history and fantasy_ through which he explored various facets of femininity in an expressive approach.
On Burberry_s youthful revival
Heritage label Burberry caused a stir this season by almost entirely upending its identity in place for one that seemingly intended to embrace a younger client – though still retaining a sense of British culture. For Longland_ who saw an alignment with music festivals_ the brand_s muse appeared to be both an audience and artist of such an event_ with jackets_ trenches and leather emerging as core strengths. These pieces added “structure_ attitude and a modern edge to the brand_s heritage”_ Longland elaborated.
He continued: “What stood out was the balance between authenticity and relevance; it wasn_t simply about repeating house codes_ but about reinterpreting them for today_s culture. For Harrods_ this signals a Burberry that is not only honouring its legacy but actively investing in its future audience”.
On must-have items and trends
Burberry_s new path mirrored what Longland said was London_s tendency to resist strict categorisation_ something that he felt throughout the season as a whole. “From sculptural tailoring to romantic craftsmanship to youth-driven festival references at Burberry_ the diversity of aesthetics underlined a city thriving on individuality rather than homogenised trends_” he noted.
Nevertheless_ some items were deemed to be must-haves by the buying specialist. Longland particularly pointed to “standout” gowns at Roksanda and the “refined yet powerful tailoring” of Emilia Wickstead. Meanwhile_ Simone Rocha_s line offered “romantic_ wearable separates" that bore a “strong commercial appeal”.
On ones-to-watch
When talking on emerging designers_ Longland highlighted Patrick McDowell and Priya Ahluwalia as strong contenders_ with each presenting what he saw as “individualistic collections that underline the strength of London_s emerging scene”. “At Harrods_ our work begins with careful observation – recognising and championing creativity at its early stages_ with the possibility of deeper collaborations in the future_” he continued.
For her collection _Affinity__ Ahluwalia explored how love was expressed and celebrated across cultures and generations_ touching on its duality and ability to unify or challenge those who come across it. Garments in the line aptly referenced various cinematic depictions of romance_ from Bollywood films to Shakespearean tales to R&B ballads.
On London_s shifting proposition
For this season_ LFW was in a period of major transition under the leadership of the British Fashion Council_s new chief executive Laura Weir. According to Longland_ the schedule reflected Weir_s “focus on reinforcing London_s unique position: a stage for both established British names and international houses looking to harness the city_s creative energy”.
He concluded: “What defines London is its refusal to be confined to one aesthetic – it is the diversity and vibrancy of its designers that continues to make it a global capital for fashion.”
