Rachel Arthur on why production volumes & incentives must change to reach sustainability goals

There are countless sustainability initiatives across the global fashion industry_ but who is truly driving that transition? Are their efforts visible to the public or not? In this series_ we interview changemakers_ consultants_ sustainability experts_ and activists in fashion to see what we can learn from their work.

We speak with Rachel Arthur_ strategist_ consultant_ and author for sustainable fashion and textiles. She has dedicated her career to driving sustainable change_ including working as a consultant at the UN Environment Programme (UNEP). As an expert_ she regularly shares her insights and commentary on sustainability issues from overproduction to implementing new business models.

1. Who are you and what is your background? How did you end up working in sustainable fashion?

Rachel: "I'm a journalist by training. I started my career in the newsroom_ reporting on what was happening in the fashion industry from a business perspective. I worked at WGSN in trend forecasting for eight years_ tracking and covering all kinds of signals of change_ from e-commerce to social media_ technology_ digital transformation_ and innovation_ which over time evolved into sustainability. I started covering bioscience_ new materials_ blockchain_ and traceability_ which was my entry point into the sustainability space. Like many others on this side of the industry_ once you've opened the door into this part of the world_ there isn't really any turning back."

"Simultaneously_ I started consulting independently_ and I_ve been working in that capacity for the past ten years. I made a commitment to focus on projects that I genuinely believe are driving change and contributing towards transformation. That led me to the UN Environment Programme (UNEP) in 2020_ where I have since been the Advocacy Lead for Sustainable Fashion. I also serve as a consultant for other organisations in different capacities. It_s been a really interesting time to be with UNEP as things have really scaled up since textiles were prioritized as a high-polluting industry_ and since I helped form their theory of change for sustainability and circularity across the value chain."

2. What are some projects that you worked on and are currently working on that you can share with us?

"When I first started at UNEP_ I was drafted to write a strategy about the role of communication for driving change and uptake of a more sustainable fashion sector. Published in 2021_ it focused on the power of storytelling and the need to shift the industry_s narrative. Much of what is _wrong with fashion_ is baked into the narrative of that story_ one built around the need for speed_ newness_ status_ and social validation. In the process_ the industry has drifted from its core foundations: people_ nature_ craftsmanship_ care_ and equity."

"Building on that_ I then authored and published UNEP and the UNFCCC_s _Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook_ in 2023_ a guide for consumer-facing communicators_ from marketers and media to activists and educators. It outlines how to avoid greenwashing_ reduce messaging that fuels overconsumption_ and promote ways of engaging with fashion that align with environmental and social sustainability. At the time_ there were limited conversations around overconsumption_ yet it was evident that addressing production impacts alone is not enough when production volumes remain so high."

"I also authored a paper for Textile Exchange in 2024 called _Reimagining Growth_ that examines how the industry_s scale of production and consumption undermines its sustainability goals. It explores why an expansion-driven model is incompatible with those targets and unpacks the cultural and structural barriers that make this conversation so challenging."

"Today_ much of my work builds on that systems perspective_ identifying the levers_ incentives_ and frameworks that must shift to enable real change. Whether working with businesses_ NGOs_ or policymakers_ the focus is on reshaping the underlying model_ not just addressing surface-level symptoms."

3. What key changes have you seen over the past five years emerge in terms of circularity and sustainability?

"Over the past five years_ there's been a real influx of people entering the sustainability space_ which has been incredibly promising and motivating. In 2020_ as COVID forced the world to a standstill_ there was a powerful sense that "another way is possible." It gave us permission to question the system and rethink not only how we consume_ but how we produce. From supporting workers to witnessing biodiversity return in places left untouched_ it became clear that much of what fashion considered essential was in fact superfluous_ and that sustainability was possible."

"The momentum continued through 2021 and 2022_ with new targets_ new roles_ and regulatory progress fueling hope. But by last year_ political conflict and economic downturn slowed that progress. We're now in what feels like a low point_ where the work is harder than ever_ and optimism can be difficult to hold onto. And yet_ those of us in this space know we're on the right side of history. After a particularly discouraging start to 2025_ the second half of the year brought renewed resolve."

"Now there_s a growing sense that we have to push forward regardless. What_s shifted over the past five years is that we_ve moved from talking about what needs to change to the much harder work of actually implementing it_ all while navigating political and economic pressures that have made that process even more challenging. Still_ there is positivity_ meaningful progress_ and cautious hope_ with forecasts indicating that we_ll return to a stronger upward trajectory by 2027 or 2028_ and that_s what I_m working toward. There is real positivity and meaningful progress underway."

4. Do you think that the industry is approaching a tipping point when it comes to circularity — or are we not there yet? Why?

"I_m not sure we_re at a tipping point yet. That may be wishful thinking_ especially as larger systems are pushing against progress. We_re seeing funding pulled and advocacy organizations shut down. I_d like to believe that_ in hindsight_ we_ll say 2026 laid the groundwork for one_ but we_re not there yet. We may have reached a low point and begun to edge upward_ but a true tipping point still needs to be built."

"Now_ though_ we_re in the weeds_ in the phase of doing the hard_ technical work. The people deep in that work are amazing and deeply committed. The challenge is that the system doesn_t allow their efforts to scale enough to compete with the existing_ more “unsustainable” model. Until we address that systemic barrier_ real transformation won_t happen."

5. What are some real_ actionable steps that you think the fashion and textile sector can take to accelerate real impact/change?

"From a systems-change perspective_ there isn_t one simple action or model that one business can achieve alone. It requires complexity and alignment across the board_ “everything_ everywhere_ all at once.” But fundamentally_ the industry must confront its excess volumes. Not just waste or unsold stock_ but the oversupply baked into the model_ flooding the market and perpetuating obsolescence."

"To shift that_ we need to rethink incentive structures and how we define value. That means integrating true pricing to reflect environmental and social costs_ and addressing the production volumes that underpin what we currently call success_ a model that ultimately cannot endure in the face of climate realities."

6. What role do collaboration and innovation play in driving systematic change across the fashion industry_ in your opinion?

"Both are fundamental_ but we need to be honest about what they really mean. We_re good at collaborating in theory_ talking about what should be done_ but far less effective at truly working together to drive change and back it financially. Some of the most critical issues_ like production volumes and marketing_ are difficult to address collectively because of competition laws_ yet they still require open conversation."

"Innovation is essential. There are incredible solutions already emerging_ from new materials to full life cycle models that address recycling_ resale_ and reuse. But innovation alone won't be enough unless it actively displaces virgin resource extraction. Ultimately_ none of these circular models_ recycling_ or new technologies will scale without enforced regulation. The current voluntary system operates in a highly competitive landscape where those ignoring the "rules" often win. Regulation is needed to level the playing field so that doing the right thing is not a disadvantage_ but the foundation for fair competition."

7. With 2026 now well underway_ what are some of the main challenges in your opinion when it comes to implementing or scaling solutions capable of bringing about real change?

"I think there simply isn't enough of an enabling environment for circular models to scale. Policy incentives are limited_ and therefore_ the old_ traditional way of operating is easier and cheaper_ and there's still a perception that consumers aren't fully interested_ which makes investment feel risky. It becomes a classic chicken-and-egg situation: brands say consumers aren't ready_ so they don't invest_ yet far more budget goes into traditional marketing than into promoting circular models. If that funding shifted_ then you could drive more attention there_ and demand could grow."

"There_s also a big awareness gap around what_s possible and accessible. Beyond that_ supply chain fragmentation and lack of transparency add further complexity. But from a scaling perspective_ the biggest barriers are policy_ finance_ and ultimately incentive structures. We still measure success by revenue and GDP_ which reinforces the current system and doesn_t play into a world in which sustainability is more than possible. Yet many of the most interesting alternative models driving change don_t fit that metric. A local WhatsApp sharing group_ for example_ creates constant value exchange without generating revenue. People swap items_ items get more use_ and people benefit_ but none of it appears on a national ledger. That challenges how we define value and what we recognize as success."

8. And what are some of the key opportunities or biggest advantages for the industry in scaling more sustainable solutions?

"I think there are tons of opportunities here_ including entirely new types of businesses. We're often stuck in traditional models_ but a new fashion ecosystem is already emerging_ offering alternative ways. The growth of secondhand platforms like Vinted_ Depop_ eBay_ and Vestiaire Collective_ for example_ proves there's massive consumer appetite and real commercial potential in doing fashion differently."

"At the same time_ when we talk about producing less_ the instant pushback on that conversation is concern over jobs in developing markets. I think we have to change that narrative. Addressing overproduction doesn't have to mean cutting livelihoods; it can mean creating higher-quality_ better-paid work. This was a central focus in the _Reimagining Growth_ analysis for Textile Exchange: the importance of ensuring more than just a transition_ and making sure efforts to tackle growth also protect workers and communities. Rather than framing this shift through fear_ negativity_ or controversy_ we should be asking: what new opportunities could emerge_ and how do we transform labor markets accordingly? We have to go there_ and we can do it in a way that safeguards livelihoods_ if we're willing to rethink the model."

9. How do you view the future of the fashion industry? Is your glass half full or half empty?

"I'm a glass-half-full person_ but I'm also a realist. I feel very optimistic about the people who are focused on driving change because within the sustainability community_ there's real momentum and a clear understanding of what needs to shift. However_ the lack of political will is very present. Given the current political context_ it's really challenging_ as without policy on side_ we won't get there. And while the 2030 and 2040 targets are urgent and daunting_ the kind of systemic change we're talking about_ especially around consumption_ isn't an overnight fix."

"So I try to focus less on immediate wins and more on laying the groundwork for deeper_ longer-term change_ while still contributing to short-term emergency goals. That longer view helps me stay positive. Ultimately_ the industry needs to do the same_ moving beyond short-term thinking and quarterly returns toward building something that can truly last."

10. What final parting message or food for thought would you like to share with our readers_ fashion executives_ and industry professionals?

"On an individual level_ I think we should all be asking ourselves what we can do to play our part. If you're not already driving change_ how can you start within the role you have? That might mean transforming your job from the inside_ shifting your career path_ or making changes on a personal level."

"For the industry as a whole_ though_ it_s about zooming out. We have to confront the harder truth that the system we_re operating in is fundamentally destructive_ and that the current model of “sustainability” often just reinforces business as usual. Unless we_re willing to collectively rethink that system_ we won_t create the kind of change that_s actually needed."