Prada unravels_ layers and reveals at Milan Fashion Week
Does Prada want to coddle you in an unravelling world?
At Milan Fashion Week on Thursday_ the Prada show opened with cozy knit sweaters and multi-coloured scarves_ only for garments to be ripped open_ exposed and distressed as the catwalk continued.
Meta's Mark Zuckerberg and wife Priscilla Chan were celebrity guests in the front row of the Fall/Winter 2026-2026 women's show_ but most of the shrieking by the female crowds outside was reserved for Thai actor Pond Naravit Lertratkosum and Korean K-pop sensation Wooyoung -- wearing Prada_ of course.
The collection celebrating layering from co-designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons was filled with curious surprises_ from faux fur embellishments running up and down the chest like tactile ties to shimmery linings peeking out from slashes in garments.
In their show notes_ the designers described "mutations from within_ visible to the exterior" as fabrics looked as if they had been purposefully eaten away or distressed_ revealing hidden mysteries beneath.
"I think that we like very much the idea that there is a lot of things coming together that do not necessarily give you what you expect_" Simons said backstage after the show_ as model Bella Hadid enthusiastically kissed the hand of Prada.
Hadid was one of just 15 models working the show with 60 outfits_ where each time the outfit was broken down to reveal new possible looks through layering.
"It's a lot about the feel_ to kind of be inspired_ and bring things together that feel contemporary to us_ but not necessarily very narrative_" said Simons_ who has co-designed with Prada since 2020.
Exaggerated pink cuffs adorned shirts worn under sweaters or jackets_ and a pink satin dress looked literally ripped open at the bodice to expose a shiny black corset-like top beneath.
Scraps of animal-patterned fabric were incorporated into a black silk dress_ while bulky sweaters were tucked into sheer skirts.
The setting inside the Fondazione Prada emphasised the inside/outside theme_ with pink and white walls decked out with elegant boiserie and marble fireplaces_ but also exposing brick construction beneath.
Like at the brand's men's show in January_ a short yellow waterproof cape decorated a coat_ while a beige jacket revealed bronze sequins beneath a turned up collar.
The recipe_ according to Simons_ was "to work instinctively".
"From the heart_ from the mind_ from the feeling_ from our knowledge_ from our respect for history and our interest in the future. I think that's what we have to do as designers_" he said.
Armani meets Peaky Blinders
At Emporio Armani_ designers Silvana Armani and Leo Dell'Orco looked to the past for their women's/men's show_ featuring a healthy dose of "greige"_ the beige and grey mix so beloved by founder Giorgio Armani.
Newsboy caps_ button-down vests and a predominance of subtle plaids recalled "Peaky Blinders"_ while pocket watch chains consolidated the 1920s feel.
But the collection also featured shimmering avocado and mauve blouses over flowing tiny shorts_ long nubby knit sleeveless dresses with dramatic fringe at the hemline_ or jeans and jean shirts featuring sequins adorning one leg or shoulder.
To help close out the show_ a line of female models were decked in crisp and roomy white men's shirts_ paired untucked with tight black leggings and stiletto heels -- a reworked tuxedo look that felt like the end of a wild night.(AFP)