Pitti Uomo preview: Shinyakozuka_ the brand creating 'wearable picture books'
The Pitti Uomo fashion trade fair_ held between January 13 to 16_ will bring together industry professionals from around the world in Florence_ Italy. Among the many exhibiting brands from across the globe_ one brand will present a special runway show alongside last year's LVMH Prize winner Sohsiotsuki and Headmayer. That brand is the Japanese label Shinyakozuka.
Shinyakozuka's identity is defined by the ambiguity of its brand concept. Many people have experienced memories being evoked by a particular scent or piece of music. Shinyakozuka_ however_ attempts to recreate memories not through smell or sound_ but through sight—through fashion.
The brand is characterised by designs reminiscent of a boy's fantasy_ evoking picture books like 'The Little Prince' or fantasy films. Its brand concept is 'picturesque scenery'. It has translated these vague images and emotions into clothing through silhouettes_ textures_ and spacious proportions.
Fashion as part of a landscape
Designer Shinya Kozuka graduated with distinction from London's prestigious Central Saint Martins in 2013 and launched his current brand_ Shinyakozuka_ in 2015. The brand presents collections inspired by landscapes_ clothing from his time in London_ or the designer's own drawings.
Kozuka's collections stand apart from common fashion themes such as avant-garde expressions of antithesis to society_ or homages to and redefinitions of specific cultures. In an interview with fashion and culture media outlet Qui_ Kozuka explained that he begins his design process not with a specific message to convey_ but with an initial thought: “Wouldn't it be lovely if this kind of clothing existed in this landscape?”
He treats clothing as merely one element within a remembered scene. He focuses on the overall atmosphere and image of the collection rather than the details of the garments_ aiming to leave room for the viewer's interpretation.
Shinyakozuka's collections also function as a reflection of the designer's own imagination and experiences. The autumn/winter 2024 collection_ marking the brand's tenth anniversary_ was based on a picture book Kozuka created as a student. Following the story of a protagonist who discovers and becomes captivated by colour_ the collection progressed from monochrome garments to colourful ones. Similarly_ the autumn/winter 2025 collection_ themed “Good morning_ I wish I could fly_ never mind_” expressed the story of a penguin dreaming of flight across the entire runway.
The collaboration with Dickies_ which began with the spring/summer 2021 collection and continues to this day_ was a key factor in raising the brand's profile. Dickies' classic_ durable T/C twill work jackets and trousers were reimagined in Shinyakozuka's signature oversized designs.
Synergy with Pitti Uomo
Pitti Uomo is one of Italy's largest fashion trade fairs. Last June_ it attracted a total of 15_000 industry professionals_ including buyers from over 100 countries across five continents.
Kozuka's brand was selected for the 'Future Maschile' curation_ one of the four curated sections of the event. 'Future Maschile' showcases works by designers exploring advanced menswear creation_ many of which possess a unique structural beauty. In contrast to other brands that often feature simple_ minimalist designs and colour palettes_ Kozuka's fantastical designs are likely to stand out at the venue.
Key items
Contrary to the fantasy atmosphere of its fashion shows_ the brand's individual products feature a range of functional_ workwear-like items.
The brand's signature collection is a line of wide-leg trousers named 'Baggy'_ which features a variety of silhouettes. These stretchy_ easy-to-move-in baggy trousers are priced from approximately 30_000 to 50_000 yen. The popular collaboration items with Dickies_ such as jackets and trousers_ are priced around 30_000 yen. The collaboration items with Tsuchiya Kaban_ to be exhibited at Pitti Uomo_ range from 80_000 to 130_000 yen.
Some outerwear and tops feature the brand's unique sizing system. The size 'Her' represents a slightly smaller fit_ as if worn by a girlfriend. 'My' is a standard men's size_ and 'His' signifies a larger fit_ like a girlfriend wearing her boyfriend's clothes.
Items can be ordered internationally from the official online shop or from sites such as Ebay and Grailed. In Japan_ products are available at the flagship store in Omotesando and at the select shop Studious. Furthermore_ Hankyu Men's Tokyo Garage D. Edit_ which showcases a diverse range of domestic and international menswear brands_ has a dedicated booth for Shinyakozuka. The shop design allows customers to enjoy a shopping experience immersed in the brand's fantasy world.