Pierpaolo and the 'humanity' of Balenciaga
Madrid – A focal point of the recent Paris Fashion Week_ Spanish heritage house Balenciaga closed Saturday_s schedule with its AW26 menswear and womenswear showcase. The collections leaned heavily into the Renaissance and Baroque influences that once guided the brand's founder_ Cristóbal Balenciaga.
Presented on 7 March_ the show marked Pierpaolo Piccioli_s second womenswear and debut menswear collections since becoming creative director last October. Under the ownership of Kering_ the brand is currently undergoing a strategic renewal similar to that of Loewe. Piccioli_s previous SS26 _The Heartbeat_ collection successfully revived the house's refined _chic_ aura_ moving away from the gritty_ urban street style that defined the era of his predecessor_ Demna_ who stepped down in March 2025 to lead the development of Kering_s flagship brand_ Gucci.
In this second outing_ Piccioli appears to be bridging the gap between heritage and modernity. While his debut felt like a sharp departure from the Demna years—highlighted by the somewhat jarring presence of Anne Hathaway in old-era Balenciaga—this AW26 collection integrates nuanced streetwear influences. Drawing from the High Renaissance technique of chiaroscuro_ Piccioli explores the tension between light and shadow. This artistic concept_ central to the Baroque style that influenced Cristóbal Balenciaga_ serves as a metaphor for the dualities of the human condition.
Titled _Chiaroscuro__ the collection uses this play of light to define and outline volume. The house described the approach as an exploration of “dual extremes”_ where darkness and light are interdependent. By treating light and shadow as defining elements of humanity_ Piccioli creates a sophisticated narrative that moves beyond mere aesthetics.
Enveloping cuts and sculptural collars
The palette is anchored by the signature _Balenciaga black__ alongside deep earthy browns_ maroons_ and burgundies. These dark foundations are punctured by vibrant flashes of crimson_ grass green_ lavender_ and fuchsia. This chromatic depth references the dramatic works of El Greco and Zurbarán_ artists who were pivotal to the founder_s original vision.
The silhouettes offer postmodern reinterpretations of historic cuts—specifically the trapeze_ sack_ and cocoon dresses. Modernity is injected via strategic _cut-out_ details_ echoing some of the shapes Demna has recently introduced at Gucci. Voluminous_ sculptural collars and shell-like structures frame the face and body_ honouring Cristóbal Balenciaga_s legacy of sculpting directly onto the form. Sensual_ gossamer fabrics further highlight the movement and anatomy of the wearer.
“Amplifying Cristóbal Balenciaga_s focus on human morphology_ the body becomes the internal structure of the garments_” the house stated. The design uses hoods and necklines to frame the face “like a portrait”_ while footwear creates a “magically suspended” effect. Materials such as leather_ cashmere_ and silk were selected for their ability to absorb and reflect light_ altering the perception of the garments.
Ultimately_ this AW26 collection functions as a modern wardrobe that balances collective identity with individual expression. By merging historical techniques with a contemporary perspective_ Piccioli has crafted a series of garments that speak to both the heritage of the house and the current needs of the luxury market.
