Phoebe English brings a peaceful beauty to LFW

British fashion designer Phoebe English_ who has been at the forefront of sustainable fashion_ returned to the London Fashion Week schedule with an exploration of the corsage_ as well as the flowers with which she has a personal affinity.

The intimate presentation_ held in an art gallery space in Bethnal Green_ took the audience through a calendar year of flowers_ from snowdrops fluttering down the arms to 3D apple blossom_ foxgloves_ and dandelions_ with pieces utilising surplus and off-cut fabrics from the bridal industry.

The 12-piece _Lost Touch_ decorative collection saw each style highlighting a different flower and the lifecycle of the seasons_ moving from the transparent winter months to denser_ fuller silhouettes in the spring and summer_ all presented in varying shades of cream and white to highlight the texture of the flowers and leaves.

Key pieces from the collection included translucent tops_ boxy shirts_ drawstring trousers and dresses_ some featured florals enlarged as 3D creations_ which secured around the arms and body_ fluttered as they would in a gentle breeze when the models walked_ while others looked like they_d been pressed between the pages of a book and embossed onto the fabric.

“This collection follows a calendar year where each look includes a plant from that month_” explains English to FashionUnited in an interview. “We've been looking at the architecture of each plant_ as well as scale and exploring the idea of the corsage.”

Phoebe English returns to the London Fashion Week schedule

To find out more about the British designer_s design process_ FashionUnited chatted with the designer about how she implements sustainable practices into her collections and the biggest challenges facing independent labels like hers in London.

You often describe your work as "designing backwards" – how do you make your collections sustainable?

We're still exploring that every time we do a collection. So far_ we've explored using waste materials_ developing reduced waste patterns and working with botanical and natural dyes to reduce the dependency on petrochemical colour.

You_ve said previously that a mono-fibre approach is the best to ensure garment biodegradability – what are the biggest technical hurdles you_ve faced in replacing standard components like zips and interfacings with natural alternatives?

When we first started working like this_ it required more planning_ thought and research to make it work. But now that's all in place_ we simply follow that framework every time we make a new garment.

Does your sustainable approach to fashion make it harder to be a successful designer in today_s commercial landscape?

Sometimes yes_ but we have found that we create deeper relationships with returning clients who are interested in sustainability.

You_ve shared your research at institutions like the British Library and the Barbican. How do you feel about the industry_s pace in adopting a circular approach to design?

It's always exciting to see circular design taken seriously_ and I hope to see it develop and grow.

You_ve previously partnered with several brands in recent years_ including Lavenham and Toast – how do you decide on the brands you work with?

In these cases_ it was interesting to work with these brands who already have sustainable approaches in their working framework and to see what they have changed over time_ but it is also interesting to work with brands who don't have these in place_ and we are keen to help them.

Your work was recently featured in the Barbican's _Dirty Looks_ exhibition – how did that feel to see your work displayed?

It was a really special moment to see work from one of our old collections on display. It was a lovely exhibition_ and I'm really pleased we got to be a part of it.

The fashion industry has had a tough few years_ especially for independent labels – how have you maintained your longevity?

We never wanted to just do wholesale_ so we have pertained a direct following that has sustained us recently. There isn't a recipe to follow; however_ we chop and change as we go_ following our instincts.

What are the current challenges facing your business?

London studio rental prices and maintaining our cash flow.