Paris Men's Fashion Week: A focus on pragmatism and classic staples
Paris - Suits_ functional pieces and little extravagance defined Paris Men's Fashion Week. The event_ which concludes on Sunday_ has championed a pragmatic and risk-averse winter season.
Following a 2025 marked by a significant reshuffle of creative directors and numerous debuts_ this winter edition is more restrained. It features fewer shows and no new launches_ reflecting a measured approach in both substance and form.
Matthieu Morge Zucconi_ head of menswear at French newspaper Le Figaro_ analysed for AFP_ “It has been a rather conservative season_ without any groundbreaking proposals.”
“We are in a period where we get straight to the point. This is reflected in the shows_” agreed Astrid Faguer_ a fashion journalist at French business supplement Les Échos Week-End.
Specialists believe that against a backdrop of challenging current events and economic turbulence in the luxury sector_ brands are seeking to reassure. Consequently_ they are less inclined to take risks.
The trend for next winter_ therefore_ leans towards reliable staples and even nostalgia.
Suit resurgence
The suit and tie combination has emerged as a key feature on the runways.
At Louis Vuitton_ Pharrell Williams presented a versatile range. This included single and double-breasted styles_ various tailored fits_ and even a version paired with Bermuda shorts.
At Dior_ the suit channelled different eras. It evoked the 1940s with rounded shoulders and wide trousers_ and the 1960s with cigarette trousers and a cropped blazer.
At Hermès_ tailoring showcased luxurious materials_ from flannel to crocodile. Meanwhile_ Sacai playfully deconstructed classic trousers by adding ruffles_ creating the illusion of layered shorts.
Juun.J presented floral and velvet versions_ as well as a style featuring wide biker trousers.
Checked prints were also widely featured. They appeared on Jeanne Friot_s transparent tartan jumpsuits and Kolor_s tartan shirts.
At Dior_ the iconic Bar jacket was reimagined in a houndstooth pattern. Louis Vuitton featured numerous Prince of Wales check suits. At Officine Générale_ the pattern was used for a coat with an unapologetically classic design.
As expected for the season_ rainwear was abundant_ particularly at Balenciaga with its highly technical raincoats.
Fantasy lies elsewhere
The colour palette remained neutral_ featuring black_ grey_ beige and brown. Brighter touches appeared_ such as the purple seen at Dior_ Vuitton_ Issey Miyake and Etudes Studio.
For Adrien Communier_ head of fashion at GQ_ this sobriety primarily reflects a return to essentials. “There is a real trend of creating clothes for today that are built to last and withstand daily life_” he observed.
According to Communier_ both the public and designers are no longer interested in seasonal items that are quickly discarded. Instead_ they desire silhouettes that are timeless.
He believes_ “It is impossible not to see a reference to the international context. I think there is something very responsive and pragmatic in relation to that.”
In this context_ “fantasy is found elsewhere_” noted Astrid Faguer. She noted_ “We have never seen so many hats_” referencing everything from Dior_s punk wigs and Vuitton_s leather caps to Officine Générale_s backwards berets and Rick Owens_ macramé masks.
Eyewear also made an appearance at Amiri_ Dries Van Noten_ Juun.J and Willy Chavarria.
Extravagance was found in the details. Masculine silhouettes were adorned with striking embellishments. These included fringed rhinestone epaulettes at Dior and tiny jewels encrusted in a grey cape-coat at Dries Van Noten.
These flashy touches enhanced the outfits without disrupting the overall balance of the silhouettes.