NYFW: Rachel Scott unveils vision for Proenza Schouler

When Rachel Scott was appointed to the creative helm of Proenza Schouler last year_ founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were eager for their brand to enter a new chapter. As the designer duo moved on to Loewe_ they left Schouler in the hands of Scott_ a Jamaican-American designer through whom they saw an opportunity to bring a “global design perspective” to the label_ alongside “vast technical knowledge and a distinctive new voice”.

Scott had already made a name for herself under her own brand Diotima_ a NYFW regular that had received notable accolades since its founding in 2021 – namely the 2024 CFDA American Womenswear Designer of the Year Award. Through Diotima_ Scott weaved elements of Jamaican craftsmanship into a contemporary wardrobe_ reinterpreting traditional Caribbean techniques as a means to champion slow fashion.

This approach seemingly carried into what was her debut collection for Proenza Schouler. Aptly titled _The First Women_s Collection by Rachel Scott__ the AW26 line served as a love letter to women_ specifically those of New York. In its entirety_ the collection is almost presented as a whole wardrobe_ with pieces ranging from eveningwear to officewear to more casual attire.

McCollough and Hernandez_s initial signatures remain partially intact_ particularly in the presence of sleek tailoring_ evident in flared pant suits and structured co-ords. Scott also took into account the global nature of the Schouler woman_ which she sees as someone who doesn_t prioritise a sleek appearance_ and therefore would be drawn to the twisted silhouettes of gowns_ fringed shoes_ and button-down structuring.