New stories and clear statements at Paris Fashion Week Men's
While the mood in Milan seemed subdued_ designers in the French capital went all out_ undeterred by the ongoing consumer slump. A notable trend was the convergence of streetwear and classic menswear.
Dreamers
One example is the collection by Emeric Tchatchoua_ creative director of the streetwear brand 3.Paradis. The collection showcased casual silhouettes of outerwear and wide shorts alongside formal looks. Asymmetrical cuts of tailored jackets and playful details_ such as a multitude of watches hanging from a long coat_ bridged the gap between the more casual pieces.
Time_ or rather the illusion of it_ was also the theme of Tchatchoua_s collection “Steps to Nowhere”. This was visualised by the vast_ silent_ and endless desert_ according to 3.Paradis on Instagram. The main character_ “The Little Prince”_ from the eponymous work by French author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry_ also appears on various pieces in the collection.
Kidsuper founder Colm Dillane invited his guests to dream. His collection_ shown at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs of the Louvre_ visualised the children's book "The Boy Who Jumped to the Moon". The imaginative and colourful collection was about the inquisitive optimism of youth and the elegant naivety of those who dare to dream big_ according to the show notes. Dillane seemed to be thinking big. He not only integrated the moon and stars theme around the book_ but also collaborated with German car manufacturer Mercedes_ fast food chain Papa John_s_ and German sportswear brand Puma. These individual capsules appeared together like an overwhelming_ yet coherent_ "fever dream".
Walter Van Beirendonck_ meanwhile_ winked at us with "bright eyes". He presented a playful collection_ typical of the Belgian designer_ with many floral prints. Instead of fictitious boys_ a black and white photograph of several children ran through the looks. Asymmetrical cuts_ cut-outs_ and a mix of different patterns_ such as camouflage_ stripes_ and polka dots_ reinforced his colourful world. Recurring buttons with peace signs made it clear that this can only be so colourful with peaceful coexistence.
Political statements
Other collections addressed real-world problems in a much more pronounced way_ making clear statements. Jeanne Friot_ with her sporty-chic and_ at the same time_ revealing collection_ took a stand against war and in support of transgender people_ as could be read on several T-shirts. She underscored this message with the colour combination of light blue_ pink_ and white stripes – the colours of the trans flag. Of course_ the buckle details typical of the designer were also present in this collection.
US-born Willy Chavarria_ meanwhile_ opened his presentation with a protest. Several tattooed men knelt in white T-shirts and shorts. The posture and clothing were reminiscent of the inmates of the Salvadoran maximum security prison Centro de Confinamiento del Terrorismo_ which includes more than 250 Venezuelans deported from the US. Salvadoran President Nayib Bukele subsequently criticised the portrayal on the short message platform X_ accusing the fashion week of "glorifying criminals".
The collection_ entitled "Huron" – a tribute to Chavarria_s hometown in California – is an expression of joy and resistance_ the Mexican-born designer wrote on Instagram_ dedicating it to undocumented people and their human dignity. A wide range of looks were on display_ ranging from loose-fitting 1980s pinstripe suits with open shirts to various workwear pieces and an urban look with wide shorts and T-shirts. The collection was rounded off by colourful suits and flamboyant dresses_ underscoring the designer's versatile talent.
A$AP Rocky_ meanwhile_ mixed streetwear_ business looks_ and uniforms for AWGE. The American rapper and designer_ whose real name is Rakim Mayers_ transformed the catwalk of his second show in Paris into an American courtroom. He sketched various participants in a hearing and sent the models through a metal detector. Mayers himself recently stood trial for assault but was acquitted in February. "Not Guilty" was also written on several tops.
Cultural influences
Louis Vuitton_ meanwhile_ took a cultural trip to India. Pharrell Williams highlighted the influence of modern Indian tailoring on the global contemporary wardrobe_ reflecting it in dandyism_ according to the show notes. The menswear design chief also experimented with the influences of nature and how the sun affects clothing. Garments and accessories took on a tactile and worn character_ as if they had experienced the effects of weather and wear. Silk_ leather_ and fine wool appeared sun-bleached in their texture_ while cashmere mixed with silk_ llama_ or vicuña was treated to resemble raw textures. In a nod to India's proximity to the Himalayas in the north of the country_ Williams also incorporated outerwear influences decorated with traditional patterns and opulent embellishments.
Self-taught designer Daquisiline Gomis transformed Jahjah – an Afro-vegan restaurant in Paris – into a brand "rooted in a diasporic_ Rastafarian_ and Pan-African vision of the present"_ according to the show notes. For spring/summer 2026_ he found inspiration in West African men of the 1970s; tailored suits worn as dignified armour on construction sites; and Rasta prophets and craftsmen. Tailoring meets patchwork and do-it-yourself elements.
The colours of the Pan-African flag – red_ black_ and green – and those of the Jamaican Rastafarian movement – green_ yellow_ and red – are an important part of the collection. Various motifs_ such as the "Lion of Judah" – often a symbol of the Rastafarian flag – and several jukeboxes_ were also seen on shirts created in collaboration with Comme des Garçons. In addition to the Paris-based Japanese brand_ sportswear brands Salomon and Adidas are among the collaborators for SS26.
Egonlab founders Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix recalled the rich history of Breton clothing in their SS26 collection. As a tribute to their grandfather_ they conducted extensive research in the archives of the French region. Pointed collars were reminiscent of Breton costumes_ while wide_ folded lapels were inspired by traditional Breton men's shirts. The highlight was a static porcelain shirt created in collaboration with artist Flávio Juán Núñez.
Simon Porte Jacquemus referenced his ancestors and_ with a show in the Orangery of the Palace of Versailles_ recalled the rural heritage of his fruit- and vegetable-farming family. He combined simplicity and elegance. A long_ fitted dress exemplified this symbiosis: the grey fabric_ together with a matching headscarf_ was reminiscent of a simple peasant woman_ yet appeared graceful due to the refinement of the silhouette. Various techniques_ such as the craftsmanship of "tulle bobbin lace" and embellishments such as bespoke tassels_ highlighted the French designer's attention to detail. Jacquemus_ menswear impressed with its simplicity. The looks consisted mainly of short jackets and wide-cut trousers_ reminiscent of various craft professions.
Anderson celebrates Dior debut
The absolute highlight of Paris Men's Fashion Week was arguably the debut of Jonathan Anderson as the new creative director of Dior. It was the first collection the Northern Irish designer presented for the French fashion house after his appointment in June_ or in April as head of menswear. The show was eagerly awaited_ with even uninvited guests gathering to watch the livestream together. Digital fashion critic 'Lyas'_ as he is known on Instagram_ invited people to a watch party at Le Saint Denis bar in Paris_ which resulted in a rush of like-minded people.
For his debut_ Anderson delved into the fashion house's extensive archives and followed founder Christian Dior's interest in English culture. Tailcoats with large buttons and bow ties were reminiscent of the 18th century_ which_ through modern cuts and fabrics_ were placed alongside preppy looks from elite schools with stand-up collars_ knitted jumpers thrown over the shoulders_ waistcoats_ and details such as bow ties. These were contrasted with wide cargo trousers_ various denim pieces_ and casual shirts styled loosely over the trousers. These apparent opposites also met repeatedly in the individual looks_ giving the more formal pieces a contemporary touch.
