Exclusive Insight: New knots and shadow play: The SS26 highlights of Seoul Fashion Week

For its 25th anniversary_ Seoul couture and ready-to-wear Week presented itself this season not only as a stage for local labels_ but also as a seismograph for upcoming style directions for the upcoming season. Between experimental draping_ streetwear statements and subtle borrowings from underwear as a styling element_ a panorama unfolded that celebrated the creative diversity of the South Korean capital.

For spring/summer 2026_ the official calendar included 14 runway shows – including big names like Caruso and Andersson Bell – as well as 74 showrooms where brands presented their exclusive ranges to buyers. A special highlight was the collaboration with the couture and ready-to-wear Council Germany. Twelve labels such as Lueder_ Richert Beil and Sia Arnika presented their designs in the Berlin Showroom_ bringing new voices to the South Korean metropolis and at the same time gaining valuable insights into the Korean global couture and ready-to-wear landscape.

Whether any of the Berlin-based designers will conquer the catwalks in Seoul in the future remains to be seen. What is certain_ however_ is that the city has plenty of style directions for the upcoming season to offer even without this prospect.

couture and ready-to-wearUnited has summarised the highlights of the SS26 season for you.

Ties_ knotted anew

The catwalks of Seoul couture and ready-to-wear Week saw the reinterpretation of an accessory that has long since ceased to be firmly anchored in the context of formal menswear: the tie. In Seoul_ the former status symbol once again became a plaything of post-gender styling codes and was found in a variety of different contexts.

Sometimes loosely looped around the neck_ sometimes draped sideways or even worn twice – the styling possibilities seem far from exhausted for designers when it comes to the former office accessory. Caruso put two ties around one model's neck and combined them with an otherwise almost ordinary look of an oversized shirt and denim_ while Andersson Bell styled a crookedly knotted tie with a frayed waistcoat_ a deliberately crumpled shirt and flower-trimmed trousers. Big Park offered a pattern mix of striped tie_ checked shirt and wide pleated trousers.

Transparency

As with ties_ transparency has been ubiquitous in recent years – especially on the red carpet. In Seoul_ however_ the trend gained new depth and direction. Instead of serving as pure provocation or a glamorous element_ transparency was reinterpreted as a means of layering_ subversion and narrative.

For SS26_ transparency sometimes appeared as a deconstructed form of tailoring_ sometimes as emphasised delicacy. Andersson Bell questioned the definition of a business look and combined a transparent mesh longsleeve with a classic jacket_ while Caruso deconstructed a jersey jacket with transparent mesh layering. Kwak Hyun Joo opted for romanticised transparency in candy colours with a lilac two-piece consisting of a crop top and skirt_ including transparent inserts_ ruffles and asymmetrical layers.

Underwear as a styling element

The interplay of underwear as a visible styling element also found its place on the catwalks in Seoul. Instead of being understood as a hidden layer_ it was deliberately moved to the centre of the looks – sometimes as a sporty detail_ sometimes as a subversive statement.

The brand New Wave Boys combined a corset-like off-the-shoulder top with high-cut shorts and bloomers_ while Ulkin showed an almost classic combination of bikini top_ open waistcoat and transparent mesh. Arts presented a more experimental approach. The label simply printed underwear onto a white T-shirt_ changing not only its purpose but also the model's proportions.

Draped ruching

In Seoul_ some labels opted for sophisticated experiments with texture and silhouette. Particularly striking was the use of adjustable ruffle details_ which gave fabrics a lively_ almost sculptural surface.

One ensemble by Arts featured a shirt dress that was reinterpreted with laces and cords_ giving classic stripes an almost futuristic dynamism and volume. Another outfit by the label Lie played with contrasts: A navy two-piece consisting of a top and miniskirt was given a sporty-urban interpretation through fine ruching and accessories such as a mesh cap. Draping was used in a comparatively traditional way on a light blue slip dress by Mmam_ whose side ruching not only brought movement to the material_ but also allowed skin to flash through thanks to a high slit.

Shadow play

While colour_ shine and extravagance set the tone in many places_ some labels consciously opted for darkness. But instead of disappearing into the shadows_ they used black as a stage for precise tailoring and subtle_ personal touches.

At Big Park_ this was evident in a dress whose austere bodice was reminiscent of classic tailoring – almost like a fusion with a traditional Hanbok – while a flowing_ pleated skirt completed the silhouette. Arts presented a monochrome_ almost sporty ensemble that was surprisingly playful thanks to oversized bows. Sling Stone's look_ with its long coat_ clean lines and oversized proportions_ formed a counterpoint to the explosion of colour from other designers_ exuding an almost sculptural austerity.