Moldovan Brands Runway: Emerging talent_ local narrative_ and political design looking towards Europe

With temperatures hovering around 10 degrees Celsius_ the start of autumn was palpable in Chisinau_ the capital of Moldova_ which hosted the sixth edition of Moldovan Brands Runway from October 1 to 4. Held just days after elections that reinforced the country's pro-European orientation_ the event reflected Moldova's drive towards European integration_ positioning fashion as a tangible reflection of its transformation.

As the country progresses in its accession process to the European Union_ it seeks to consolidate itself as an emerging hub for investment and creativity in Eastern Europe. Backed by 47 free trade agreements and its growing role as a corridor to Ukraine_ Moldova also seeks to position itself as fertile ground for independent fashion and new aesthetic narratives that emerge outside traditional circuits.

Amid Soviet-era concrete avenues and neoclassical buildings that defy time_ local designers_ artists and entrepreneurs explore their cultural identity from a contemporary perspective. Spaces such as Dofamin_ brands such as Ok Kino and creative projects such as God Era or Sannat are today proof of the dynamism of a regional scene that flourishes amid political transition and social change.

“When we first opened_ I had no idea how difficult it would be to develop a project like this in Moldova_”

On one of the streets in the centre of Chisinau is Dofamin_ a concept store that could easily compete with the window displays of the major fashion capitals. Its founder_ Evghenia Gruzdeva_ has managed to articulate a strategic proposal that combines established brands_ such as Mugler or Spanish brands Alohas and Camperlab_ with independent Eastern European designers_ such as Moldovan brand OK Kino and Ukrainian brand Litkovska. In the upcoming season_ other big names such as Coperni_ Maison Margiela and Dries Van Noten will also be added to the assortment.

“When we first opened_ I had no idea how difficult it would be to develop a project like this in Moldova_” the founder told FashionUnited. “There was no market for independent designers_ nor fashion media willing to support or promote them."

Even so_ since its foundation in 2023_ Dofamin has opted to work with brands under an exclusive representation model within the country. “When we opened_ we only had seven firms on our map. What certainly helped us was having a physical space and a well-defined concept from day one.”

Today_ the store has established itself as a local reference point and a bridge between Moldova and international fashion. Its clientele is diverse and cosmopolitan. Although it represents a minority in a country where the average monthly salary is around 650 euros_ it reflects the growing interest in fashion_ an interest that can also be seen in the street style of those attending Moldovan Brands Runway.

As part of the event_ the Dofamin team also presented Patru_ which means “four” in Moldovan_ the fourth project born under its creative umbrella. It consists of a brand built entirely on the concept of reusing pieces from the store's archive and vintage household textiles_ to which Gruzdeva and her team give a second life.

Ok Kino_s universe

Darya Golneva and Denis Caunov_ founders of the Ok Kino label in 2023_ welcomed us to their atelier to present their new collection in an intimate event that accurately captured the essence of the brand and the personality of its creators.

The label_s aesthetic proposal falls within an architectural minimalism_ with a conceptual and sculptural approach to volume. The garments_ with clean lines and structured cuts_ explore the disproportion and movement of the fabric_ generating silhouettes that defy conventional functionality.

Although the collection exudes a contemporary air_ its roots are firmly rooted in everyday life and in local references that reflect a unique cultural identity. Among them are gestures as everyday as the way the designer's grandfather used to layer several shirts_ reinterpreted here as a white piece whose appearance changes depending on how it is fastened.

The use of white_ an omnipresent colour among the neutral nuances of the collection_ also has a symbolic meaning. It pays homage to the whitewashed streets and facades of Moldova_ whose paint leaves a thin layer of white dust on those who pass or lean on them_ making dressing in white almost a tradition.

What if a queer person becomes president?

Nino Goderidze_ a designer originally from Georgia and head of the God Era brand_ decided to present her latest collection in Moldova_ motivated by a strong political and emotional connection between the two countries. “What really inspired me was the similarity between Georgia and Moldova in our political situations. Both countries are at a crossroads_ choosing between the European or the Russian path_” she explains.

For her_ that contrast —a country that is approaching Europe and another that seems to be moving back towards Russia— represents an opportunity to reflect on change and freedom. Her proposal takes on even more relevance in the context of the recent approval of an anti-LGBTQ law in her country: “The entire catwalk was conceived as a fictitious political party_ one in which a queer person becomes president.”

The collection_ presented under the God Era label_ stood out not only for its political message_ but also for a diverse and representative casting. “It was essential that the casting reflected the values of the collection_ beyond traditional beauty_” she notes.

Although the brand is still expanding_ God Era already collaborates with concept stores in Georgia and abroad_ and recently presented at Tranoï Tokyo and Parco Shibuya. Japan_ in fact_ is the market where its designs have been best received. “I think my futuristic aesthetic and the way I perceive the human body resonate with the Japanese sensibility towards form and design.”

Looking ahead_ Goderidze seeks to internationalise her brand without losing its political essence: “Fashion has lost its political edge. My contribution is to insist that clothing can be political_ performative and transformative at the same time.” The prices of the collection vary between 200 and 1_200 euros_ depending on the garment.

The presidency of “absurdistan”

Although it is common for designers to use theatres and other similar spaces as a backdrop_ Sannat went further by integrating its presentation into the same stage that inspired it_ inviting attendees to experience the 90 minutes of work that gave rise to its proposal based on the absurd_ and in particular on the play “The Viscount” by Eugène Ionesco_ directed by Slava Sambriș.

"The show has already begun" read a note left on the seats of the theatre. At first glance_ we might think that it referred to the models who_ with designs from the brand (which we would later learn in a conversation with the designer that they were pieces from past collections)_ welcomed the attendees of the Luceafărul Theatre.

However_ the phrase actually alluded to the costumes worn by the actors themselves during the play_ made by the designer. In addition_ at certain moments_ the action stopped in a “slow motion” interpreted by the actors_ while soft instrumental music marked the passage of the models_ who walked the stage like ushers with flashlights in hand.

Unusual spaces and creativity

Other firms also opted for unconventional settings to present their collections. In a subway corridor_ passers-by became part of the spectacle as models paraded in Alexey Sorochin's designs accompanied by the creator himself_ who camouflaged himself as a street musician to avoid being recognised.

For her part_ designer Liudmila Storojuc_ head of Altezza Fashion_ chose the old Republican Stadium of Chisinau as a backdrop_ a space steeped in history that is currently destined to be the new US embassy. From this curious location_ Storojuc presented a collection dominated by power suits_ two-piece sets with architectural silhouettes_ which included a fencing show.

Also in this line_ Caravasili's proposal stood out within the event as a whole for its architectural reading of classic tailoring and the use of colour.

While most of the collections remained faithful to a monochromatic palette dominated by whites_ blacks and greys_ Caravasili introduced warm and earthy nuances —olive green_ beige and brick red— that brought freshness.

The silhouettes_ with structured shoulders and defined waists_ evoked a powerful elegance_ balancing the rigidity of the construction with the dynamism of mermaid skirts and wide trousers that accompanied the movement.

In addition_ this edition of the event presented a selection of emerging brands in a one-day pop-up format. The space brought together proposals from Rebro_ Atelier Cappa_ Niche_ Igla Bags_ Evasha_ Contradraft_ Straderm and Vois_ covering everything from fashion and accessories to jewellery and personal care_ seeking to highlight emerging talen.