Milan menswear shows add bling with brooches
Long reserved for women or military dress_ brooches adorned men's chests during Milan Fashion Week_ a throwback to a bygone era but with jewellery now signalling individuality_ not just status.
From huge flowers or watch brooches at Dolce & Gabbana to pins at Armani_ the bling passed from hands to jackets during the fall/winter 2026/2027 shows in the Italian city.
"I like these small details_ people have to pay attention to them_" said reggaeton star Rauw Alejandro_ in the front row at Prada.
Chinese buyer John Chen_ 45_ sported a gold brooch in the shape of a triangle_ the Milanese brand's logo_ on a green sweater just below his neck.
"I started wearing brooches about five years ago. I like to play with them" to personalise outfits_ he told AFP.
In Armani's refined yet relaxed collection_ some men sported a tie pin on their jacket lapel_ while male and female models wore matching sparkling brooches.
At designer Rowen Rose_ a large orange stone was used to fasten a green or yellow scarf to a matching sweater.
"It gives an extra touch. It's a good accessory -- it's become very masculine_" said Fabio Annese_ a 26-year-old Milanese interior designer sporting a heart-shaped brooch at Dolce & Gabbana.
Known for its extravagant style_ D&G has been selling brooches for men since entering the jewellery world in 2015_ and they are "still important in more formal collections"_ a spokesperson said.
Among their offerings are crosses_ crowns_ scarabs and flowers in gold and embellished with diamonds_ the last costing a cool 7_500 euros (around $8_800).
'New freedom'
The trend is in many ways a return to the past.
In Europe_ until the 18th century_ the "most important" jewellery was worn by men_ explained Emanuela Scarpellini_ professor of contemporary history at the University of Milan.
Wealthy and powerful men used it as a sign of their status_ the glittering accessories often signalling membership of a noble family or a religious order_ or military rank.
It was only with the rise of the middle-classes and businessmen in the 19th century that came "the idea that men should dedicate themselves to work_ with a more sober attitude"_ Scarpellini said at the launch of a new Milan exhibition.
"The Gentlemen"_ on show at the Palazzo Morando until September_ reveals how men's jewellery since then usually served a purpose_ such as watches_ cufflinks and tie pins.
Nowadays "there's a new freedom"_ as with clothing_ said exhibition curator Mara Cappelletti_ a professor of jewellery history.
"There are fewer jewellery pieces with a function_ and more with a freer choice_" she told AFP.
"Many of the objects men wear today were not designed for a male audience_" she said_ adding that many were vintage.
"The brooch has never been so popular."
Cappelletti noted that the trend was boosted by singers and actors wearing a lot of jewellery_ noting a photograph of Italian singer Achille Lauro sporting a huge white gold and diamond sculpted piece on his chest_ with matching earrings.
All provided by the jeweller Damiani_ which sponsors the pop star.(AFP)