Milan Fashion Week showcases precision in uncertain times
In an increasingly unpredictable world_ men are searching for comfort and clarity -- at least in their fashion choices_ according to designers in Milan this week.
At Prada_ Armani or Ralph Lauren_ the US stalwart brand that returned to Milan Fashion Week_ classic pieces underwent just slight variations without losing their comforting aspect.
"We are in a moment where the world we know is changing. It is a period of transformation and anticipation_ of excitement_ but it is a time that may be uncomfortable_" said Miuccia Prada on Sunday following the presentation of her collection co-designed with Raf Simons.
Long coats hanging over the models' slender frames were paired with round cotton caps draped jauntily over their shoulders_ while short and colourful waterproof capes decorated other coats_ as if for young_ fashionable cardinals protecting themselves from the outside world.
"How can we imagine the future_ in this moment of extreme change? This collection is a search for beauty_ for elegance and meaning_" Prada added.
Simons_ who has been designing at Prada's side since February 2020_ said the challenge was creating "something new with what you already know -- that you already learned_ loved and respected".
"In an uncertain moment_ I like when someone can make ideas very precise and clear -- this is an idea I find reassuring_ comforting_" he said.
"We reversed the form language of certain things that we know so well_" he added_ turning familiar pieces into unexpected looks.
Ralph Lauren has meanwhile returned to Milan after a 24-year absence -- although the man himself stayed back in New York -- not leaving behind the brand's beloved symbols of easy American elegance.
From tweeds_ plaids and corduroy to sweaters knit with alpine patterns_ varsity jackets and cowboy hats_ the US brand revisited dozens of its classic wardrobe of comfortable_ easy-to-mix pieces from the Polo and Purple Label lines under senior brand creative director John Wrazej.
Italian brand Zegna paired structured jackets with loose-fitting trousers in natural tones of green and terracotta_ while Tod's showcased leather jackets lined with cashmere.
'Less noise'
This fashion season in Milan was "defined by quality_ cut_ cloth and craft"_ said Simon Longland_ purchasing director for Harrods.
"There was a palpable sense that product integrity and the final customer were front and centre. Less noise_ fewer theatrics -- but a stronger_ more coherent message around what modern luxury menswear looks like today: thoughtful_ considered_ and built to last_" he said.
On Monday_ Giorgio Armani also presented velvets and cashmere of green_ blue and amethyst shades_ four months after the death of the legendary designer aged 91.
The collection's theme was "cangiante"_ an Italian word synonymous with iridescent and describing "something that remains entirely itself_ yet changes depending on your perspective"_ the brand said in a statement.
It said Leo Dell'Orco_ the late Armani's long-time companion_ wanted to "put a personal imprint on what represents his beginnings"_ his first collection since the designer's death in September 2025.
Dell'Orco received a standing ovation at the end of the show in the intimate setting of Armani's historic headquarters.(AFP)