Menswear: five things to know before the Paris shows begin
Paris - Véronique Nichanian's farewell at Hermès_ Jonathan Anderson's second Dior collection_ and the Jacquemus finale are among the highlights of the upcoming menswear shows. Starting Tuesday in Paris_ this ready-to-wear edition promises several key moments. Here are five things to know.
Pressure to sell
Over six days_ 66 houses will unveil their collections for next winter through 36 shows and 30 presentations.
Following a 2025 marked by a major reshuffle of creative directors_ this edition is set to be more measured. In October_ what many specialists dubbed the “Fashion Week of the century” saw the debuts of numerous creative directors. These included Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Jonathan Anderson for Dior womenswear.
Now_ “we are entering a phase of reduced stakes and expectations_” Marc Beaugé_ editor of L'Étiquette_ French lifestyle and men's fashion magazine_ told AFP. He believes that “the season is not very exciting.”
“We are in the midst of an economic crisis_ and this has repercussions on creativity_” analyses Marie Ottavi_ a fashion journalist at French newspaper Libération. She expects “very pragmatic collections” to meet the “challenge of selling.”
“For the past few seasons_ the focus has been less on creativity and more on reassurance_” agrees Franck Nauerz_ director of menswear at Le Bon Marché and La Samaritaine.
Young designer Jeanne Friot opens the event
A rising star in French fashion_ designer Jeanne Friot is showing on the official calendar for the first time after two years of presentations. The 30-something_ known for her inclusive and socially conscious fashion_ will kick off fashion week on Tuesday at 3pm CET. This will be followed by the highly anticipated Pharrell Williams show for Louis Vuitton in the evening.
Among the newcomers_ Italian designer Luca Magliano_ winner of the 2023 Karl Lagerfeld Prize_ will also show for the first time. Meanwhile_ the labels ERL; KML; Sonia Carrasco; and Ssstein are joining the calendar for the first time in the “presentation” category.
Jonathan Anderson at Dior: pressure mounts
On Wednesday afternoon_ Dior will present the second menswear collection by Jonathan Anderson. It is one of the most anticipated events of this Fashion Week.
Following a praised summer collection in June and a more mixed reception for his first womenswear line_ the 41-year-old Northern Irish designer returns with a closely watched autumn/winter menswear proposal.
Considered one of the major talents of his generation_ Anderson must now convince the industry and establish the new identity he is creating for Dior Homme.
“There is high expectation and great pressure_” notes Alice Feillard_ director of menswear buying at Galeries Lafayette.
Véronique Nichanian's final show at Hermès
An emotional moment is expected on Saturday evening when French designer Véronique Nichanian presents her final collection for Hermès.
After 37 years at the helm of the menswear line_ the 71-year-old Parisian announced her departure in October. A rare female designer in the world of menswear_ she leaves behind a legacy of timeless and refined masculinity.
Her succession is already secured. The 30-something British designer Grace Wales Bonner will unveil her first collection in January 2027.
Loewe and Saint Laurent absent
This edition is notable for a few absences. The Spanish brand Loewe was expected to hold its first menswear show under the direction of American designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. However_ it has opted to present a co-ed collection during the womenswear Fashion Week in March.
Saint Laurent_ which returned to the official calendar in June_ is once again absent.
These absences_ however_ allow “other more independent_ smaller but well-established brands to have a greater presence on the calendar_” notes Alice Feillard. She cites French labels Lemaire and AMI_ as well as the American designer Rick Owens.
Pillars of the calendar_ Japanese houses Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto will also be present_ along with French labels 3.Paradis and Egonlab.
French designer Simon Jacquemus will close the event with a show at the Musée Picasso_ which is expected to attract numerous celebrities.