Made in Italy under scrutiny: A call for transparency and credibility
"Made in Italy" has recently come under intense scrutiny_ not only due to tariffs that continue to penalise many sectors despite recent trade agreements_ but primarily because of persistent issues surrounding illegal labor exploitation. Companies are also grappling with significant difficulties in effectively monitoring their entire supply chains_ encompassing both direct suppliers and sub-suppliers.
These incidents of exploitation_ the latest of which involves the prestigious Loro Piana brand_ consistently highlight a critical theme for FashionUnited: the paramount importance of transparency and clear communication. Businesses must sincerely_ simply_ and carefully explain what "Made in Italy" truly signifies and how its standards are upheld throughout the production process.
Saying "Made in Italy" without concrete explanation is no longer enough
Simply stating that a product is "Made in Italy" without a concrete explanation is no longer sufficient to entice customers. This is particularly true in light of revelations concerning exploitation and unsafe working conditions_ even involving highly prestigious brands. The knowledge that a designer handbag or luxury garment_ retailing for thousands of euros_ is sometimes paid to the supplier for a mere few tens of euros_ as uncovered by various investigations_ exacerbates the problem and alienates consumers from designer labels.
Less than a week ago_ Giusy Bettoni_ founder and CEO of CLASS_ an international eco-hub based in Milan_ spoke with FashionUnited. She warned that claiming to be "Made in Italy" without a precise_ clear_ simple_ concrete_ and concise explanation of the concept is unhelpful_ benefiting neither fashion nor the supply chain.
A few months prior_ Renzo Rosso_ owner of OTB_ the holding company behind brands such as Diesel_ Jil Sander_ Maison Margiela_ Marni_ and Viktor&Rolf_ also urged brands to speak up. He encouraged them to explain and demonstrate what "Made in Italy" genuinely represents. "We have unique qualities_ good taste_ we must assert ourselves for who we are and for what we have to offer_" explained the founder of OTB.
"Italy produces around 80 percent of the world's luxury goods and is considered the number one country for the production chain. This is why our artisans are sought after all over the world_ we must not let them escape_" Rosso emphasized to RaiNews24 during the programme Pomeriggio 24_ on Made in Italy Day.
Among the prominent supporters of a concrete approach to "Made in Italy" is the Minister of Enterprise and Made in Italy_ Adolfo Urso. Last week_ he announced that the introduction of a certification system was under consideration. This announcement followed the placement of the Loro Piana brand under judicial administration for alleged violation of workers' rights.
Urso told trade associations during a fashion roundtable that some illegal businesses in the fashion supply chain have tarnished the image of "Made in Italy."
A statement from the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy clarified_ "To counter the illegal behaviour of a few regarding labour_ which can damage the reputation of the entire sector_ Urso highlighted that the government is working on legislation to certify the sustainability and legality of companies in the sector_ with the aim of offering a structural solution to the problem." This proposed legislation seeks to certify the supply chain belonging to the brand owner_ based on specific preliminary checks. The goal is to prevent the brand owner from being held responsible for illegal or opaque behavior attributable to suppliers or sub-suppliers along the chain.
What truly defines "Made in Italy"
However_ the fundamental questions remain: what truly defines "Made in Italy_" and can certification genuinely provide a comprehensive solution? Experience with certifications for gender equality indicates that such measures_ while useful_ have not fundamentally altered corporate approaches or fully equalized treatment in the workplace. Similarly_ the introduction of increasingly stringent regulations_ while necessary_ is often insufficient on its own.
Therefore_ this issue is complex and deeply cultural_ encompassing numerous facets. In some instances_ it may be necessary to move beyond the "Made in Italy" label and instead focus directly on the credibility of the brand_ its people_ and the company itself. Patrizio Bertelli_ owner of Prada_ was an early proponent of this view_ decades ago advocating for "Made in Prada" to de-stigmatize offshoring to China. His philosophy was that if a product bore the brand's logo_ it inherently guaranteed quality production_ sustainable practices_ and social responsibility.
Adriano Goldschmied_ widely known as "the godfather of denim_" echoes this sentiment. He has consistently maintained that a product must be "made anywhere" but ultimately a winner. As far back as 2017_ he told FashionUnited that "Made in Italy" could be seen as a "sin of presumption." He argued that consumers trust the brand_ not merely the "made in" label. "I'll give you an example: this phone I have in my hand is an Apple; the consumer doesn't care whether it's made in Taiwan or the US_ but they care that it works well_ which is guaranteed by the brand. This philosophy of 'Made in Italy'_ in many cases_ has taken the Italian market out of reality. It is also true that in Italy there are excellent companies that know how to do their job_ examples of great skill and quality_" Goldschmied explained.
"The consumer is informed_ they know how to recognise quality and that's what counts_ not the 'made in' label. You have to be 'made anywhere but a winner'_" Goldschmied concluded.
This reflection holds more relevance now than ever. To successfully navigate this complex situation_ the industry must regain credibility through storytelling that communicates impeccable_ real_ and concrete story-making.