London Fashion Week opens with tribute to one of its greats
London Fashion Week_ better known for nurturing new talent than for its big-name shows_ kicks off on Thursday with a tribute to one of its stalwarts Paul Costelloe.
The Irish-American designer_ who died aged 80 last November_ was a regular fixture on the opening day of the British capital's fashion week since the inception of the show in 1984.
Over four decades_ his romantic_ sartorial catwalks remained a constant: witness to the rise and fall of London Fashion Week (LFW) which has seen the departure of big fashion names to its counterparts in Milan_ Paris and New York in recent years.
His son William Costelloe is now the creative director of the brand_ which wrote on social media ahead of its LFW Autumn/Winter 2026 opening show: "A new season. A powerful moment. A legacy moving forward."
Tolu Coker_ a British-Nigerian designer who launched her brand in 2018_ will also show on Thursday her elegant_ mainly-unisex designs inspired by diverse identities.
Notable names including Harris Reed and Richard Quinn will return to the catwalk in London_ with Burberry closing the week in its usual fashion on Monday evening.
Other labels will bring a royal flavour to the runway_ with brands worn by Princess Catherine including Emilia Wickstead_ Edeline Lee and Erdem putting on shows.
However_ there will be no show from the breakout Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson_ who was one of the most eagerly awaited at London Fashion Week in recent seasons.
The 41-year-old took over at Dior last June_ leaving him little time for his own brand_ JW Anderson_ which he founded in 2008.
For several years_ London has been losing ground to its star-studded rivals in Paris and Milan_ but it has clung onto its role as a breeding ground for young talent.
The British Fashion Council's NewGen initiative provides funding for emerging talent_ with several up-and-coming designers finding their stride at LFW through the incubator.
'Great support'
Designers like Simone Rocha_ Tolu Coker and Roksanda have become fashion week mainstays after making their debut on the NewGen catwalk.
Among the recent breakouts is Joshua Ewusie_ a 27-year-old British creator born to Ghanaian parents who is due to put on his second fashion week show with his brand "E.W.Usie".
The young designer was supported by the King's Foundation_ a charity founded by King Charles III_ in partnership with Chanel_ which gave him a studio space shortly after he graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins school.
His hometown London_ which boasts several notable fashion schools_ provides "great support for young designers_" Ewusie told AFP ahead of his LFW presentation on Sunday.
"There's so many opportunities_ I think_ that London gives to help young brands start_" he added.
His new collection is inspired by the 1980s_ when his mother moved to London_ says the designer. It's all about culture and identity_ with leather as the star material.
French designer Pauline Dujancourt_ known for her work with knitwear_ also chose to stick with London Fashion Week after her studies at Paris's Ecole Duperre and Central Saint Martins in London.
"As much as Paris Fashion Week is incredible and I'm dreaming to be part of it one day_ maybe there's a bit more room for younger brands in London at the start_" said the 31-year-old designer_ who will show her collection on Sunday.
"I think people have come to London Fashion Week expecting to see a bit of newness and younger generations as opposed to Paris and Milan_ where it's more like established houses."(AFP)