Lidewij Edelkoort: How food shapes colour and fashion for SS27

“Doing this work is becoming more and more difficult_ almost every day_” Lidewij Edelkoort starts on stage during her SS27 trend seminar at Modefabriek_ referring to the impact of global uncertainty. “But we keep trying to make sense of things_ of the world and our profession. We need to continue. Nothing is lost yet. I absolutely still believe there is hope.”

From there_ Edelkoort introduces a surprisingly wholesome starting point for her forecast: “I hope you love food.”

This article explores Edelkoort_s key colour directions for SS27_ followed by fashion trends shaping the season.

_The Cookbook of Colour_ for SS27 includes cheese yellow_ black_ dark pastels such as old rose and grey

The culture of cheese

The Craft of Black

Inspirations range from smoked garlic and roasted vegetables_ aligning with a broader fascination for craft_ mysticism and witchcraft. Black appears in multiple expressions in fashion_ shaped by material choices such as transparent fabrics and black lace.

The waist becomes a focal point_ often tightly wrapped or belted. The double belt makes a comeback as an accessory_ recalling Edelkoort_s memory of a multi-wrap belt that became a bestseller during her time working in retail at department store De Bijenkorf _a very long time ago_.

The Curiosity of Dress

Very opulent_ appetising_ over the top dark pastels such as old rose_ which gain unexpected richness. “Used in beauty on beauty and beauty”_ a kind of old romance seen in abundant styling. Dirty pastels make a good combination paired with chocolate tones.

Taste of Origins

Drawing inspiration from ingredients found in Colombian and Mexican cuisine_ a family of softly coloured yet neutral hues appears in yellow_ orange and purple tones reminiscent of coloured corn and sweet potatoes. These colours can be mixed freely and combine harmoniously.

The Sandwich Sensation

Edelkoort also introduced a colour concept she referred to as _the sandwich sensation__ visualised through a towering sandwich made of multiple layers of bread and toppings. Built on the idea of using _the rest of the rest (materials_ ed.)__ the concept translates into fashion through multicoloured layering_ crochet and textile constructions. She illustrated the concept with an archival Viktor & Rolf look_ calling it “a completely random form of étage”.

Consumption of Grey

Grey expands into a broad spectrum for SS27_ from almost-black shades to mauve-tinged tones inspired by ceramics_ metals (_the new metal might be tin_) and dyed textiles. The color works naturally with beige. Another beautiful combination is grey paired with muted blue and softened brown in a single look.

According to Edelkoort_ the renewed relevance of grey is closely tied to the need to bring layering back into fashion. “Now everything in a store is flat_” she notes_ referring to garments at the same eye level/has the same horizon when you take a closer look in store. “There is nothing more boring_ obviously_ than having clothes the same length on top of each other_ because you can_t play.” Fashion no longer moves.

For SS27 - or starting right now_ Edelkoort urges her audience to reintroduce _the layering process_. “Differences in length also create a more complete message in how people dress.”

Next up: Edelkoort_s fashion directions for SS27 from The Food of Fashion

Fibrous Fashion

In the trend _Fibrous Fashion__ layering (here it is again_ ed.) is the primary design language. Textile is treated as a spatial medium_ built up through wrapping_ gathering_ smocking_ pleating and embroidery. A linen Jacquemus sleeve with wrapping around the wrist and a mushroom underside on the screen among others illustrate this tactile approach.

“A lot of room brought together_” as Edelkoort describes it_ where volume is not added but compressed into smaller_ controlled proportions_ resulting in what she calls “a form of semi-controlled opulence”.

Frugal Fashion

This movement began around a year and a half ago and marks a clear shift away from streetwear. In its place emerges cultural workwear and a more functional and above all more formal way of dressing. Edelkoort: “Still infused with fantasy_ humour_ very cool_ amazing colours and layering.”

Food containers emerge as a new point of reference for outerwear design. Lunch boxes_ - also a reflection of our economic times_ carrying one's own sustenance_ Edelkoort points out - inspire utilitarian shapes_ materials and details_ resulting in silhouettes such as waxed leather coats with an _urban picnic_ feel. Dyed fabrics and bold finishes add a graphic touch.

Frenetic Fashion

Frenetic Fashion explores erratic_ restless shapes inspired by peppers and paprikas_ resulting in “garments that seem to have a life of their own”. Forms move away from the body_ supported by heavier materials and sculptural construction. Transparency plays an important role_ combined with high shine through patent leather and similar coated surfaces. Seen at designers such as Balenciaga and Jil Sander.

During the Q&A_ Edelkoort is asked about the state of sustainability in fashion. “It_s nowhere_ to be honest.” Not globally and not within the fashion industry. “It's taken a back burner due to what's going on in the world.”

“From the fashion industry_ I expect very little_” the trend guru states. “True sustainability would mean creating beautiful garments from high-quality materials that can last thirty to forty years_ and after that_ the reuse of materials_ as was common practice in the past.”

She believes that real change must come from us_ consumers: through sharing knowledge_ publishing_ and educating students_ citing Finland as an example where consumption and life skills are taught in schools.

But there is hope as well. She tells the story of an Italian wool weaver who works with 99 percent recycled wool and even sends vans to collect leftover materials from clients_ a family business with a legacy dating back to the war. Edelkoort: “So it [sustainable fashion] is possible.”

p>Sources:
- Trend presentation by Lidewij Edelkoort at Modefabriek_ Monday_ January 19_ 2026.
- AI tools were used as a writing aid.