Lidewij Edelkoort: Fashion becomes conventional

“Convention is becoming very important_” Edelkoort shared about AW26/27_ speaking with wonder on her own appreciation for _very conventional clothing_. A photo featuring a pleated high-collar blouse; a classic_ fine-knit crew neck jumper; and a pearl necklace_ is among her favourite images from her presentation_ alongside a cute cat picture.

“Streetwear disappeared almost overnight_” said Edelkoort_ switching to English specifically for the handful of international attendees to ensure her message was understood. “The sneaker became a moccasin. The t-shirt became the shirt. The blouson became the blazer.”

What has already taken place in streetwear will now influence the rest of fashion. “A hoodie will at some point no longer be marketable_ and be careful with trainers too_” she warned the audience.

Edelkoort calls the shift towards traditional and conservative styles _a new and exciting moment_ for the clothing sector. She shared that she is genuinely enjoying fashion again for the first time in a long time.

Edelkoort is particularly enthusiastic about the _ground-breaking_ menswear. Few trousers and many shorts are seen in the new collections from designers and fashion houses: bloomer-like models and other examples with strikingly short legs. “Just as skirt length once said something about the economy_ I wonder if the shortness of men_s trousers today says something about our times_” she remarked. She calls Jonathan Anderson_s white and pink shorts for Dior Men downright desirable.

Fashion designers are already convincingly demonstrating that conventional clothing is not frumpy when humour is added to the designs_ says Edelkoort. She also points out the importance of solid construction: how a garment is put together_ or technical craftsmanship.

Workwear becomes an independent category in fashion

Good construction is another important aspect of workwear-inspired fashion.

Workwear is on the verge of a breakthrough and will become a fully-fledged category within fashion_ according to Edelkoort. Moreover_ it is a trend that could do particularly well in the Netherlands_ due to its down-to-earth_ practical character.

Think of garments like dungarees or trousers with loops to hold a hammer. Or a minimalist knitted turtleneck from The Row and a clean_ brushed jacket with a concealed zip and sturdy seams_ as Edelkoort_s presentation images show. Again_ the power lies in simplicity and craftsmanship.

The silhouettes are slightly architectural and/or industrial. The colours are light and utilitarian.

Wool and cotton are key fabrics_ and denim can be added to the styling.

“With a well-coordinated workwear outfit_ such as a jacket and matching trousers_ an alternative to a classic suit can even be created_” says Edelkoort.

Wool_ fur and animalistic prints

Sheep_ and especially their wool_ will play a prominent role in next year_s winter season. “Wool is a fibre with amazing properties and a material that we actually always underestimate. Did you know_ for example_ that you can wear it in the summer_ as people used to do_ or that when you wash wool it looks just like linen?”

In terms of materials_ _everything will be woolly_: from alpaca and mohair to bouclé and hairy textures. We are going to see coarse_ heavy knits and literally wear sheepskin.

The sheep can also serve as inspiration for silhouettes_ as Edelkoort demonstrates with an editorial photo: a woman in a meadow dressed in a large men_s checked tweed coat and a romantic white knitted bonnet. Next to it_ we see a photo of a sheep with an enormous_ dark_ woolly fleece and a small_ light-coloured head. The resemblance is striking.

The colour chart for AW26/27 features undyed wool or shades inspired by it_ such as natural_ greyish hues_ complemented by accent tones like aubergine and brown.

At the same time_ leopard prints are not going anywhere. Leopard print_ put on the map in the 1970s and permanently featured in the collections of fashion houses like Dolce & Gabbana_ is now just as classic as the polka dot_ Edelkoort believes. This print lends itself particularly well to hosiery and other accessories such as gloves.

Reptile prints_ such as fish or snakeskin_ will also become very important in winter 2025. We are also going to see a lot of fur_ _even in the summer_.

Grey becomes trendy again

“Grey is making a comeback_” says Edelkoort. “This while the colour was in fashion only recently_ and now beige_ brown and brick are dominant.”

Grey takes on a rational_ chic character in perfectly cut trousers_ herringbone coats and knitwear. She also calls the colour chic for details_ such as a grey sock combined with _a heel__ a pair of long gloves or knitted underwear to go out in (à la Miu Miu).

Edelkoort thinks we will see grey return in richer shades_ for example with a hint of green or blue.

“You can do all sorts of things between grey and brown_ by the way_” the trend guru adds. Moreover_ the combination no longer clashes_ just as black and navy can now be worn together.

Taking cover: clothing as armour

For AW26/27_ Edelkoort also signals the rise of a protective clothing style with a defensive look_ _almost bulletproof_. In a world where uncertainty and threat are palpable_ we need an increasingly thicker _armour__ she believes.

Appropriate garments within this trend are one-suits such as overalls. She also shows many outfits with military influences_ space travel or Eskimo-inspired elements for going on expeditions. The puffer jacket is going to become much more extreme and voluminous_ like the over-the-top padded coats from Moncler.

Materials underline the feeling of protection: fabrics are layered_ with double or even triple constructions_ Edelkoort explains. Also think of coated materials_ felt and water-repellent fabrics.

Colour trends that fit this trend are metals such as bronze_ rusted colours and faded_ washed-out colours (think of a well-loved teddy bear). Old metal and ornamental details reminiscent of armour also fit in with this protective aesthetic.

Finally

Trends do not change quickly_ but very gradually_ Edelkoort reassuringly emphasises. For example_ about 14 years ago_ she put together a neutral colour palette inspired by the grains at grocers in Morocco. We now see that palette reflected in the trend colour beige_ which was widely worn by the public.

A second example is the return of the low-rise jeans_ a development that_ according to her_ took perhaps 15 years. It often takes years for a trend to really break through_ and that_ according to Edelkoort_ is good news: _it means you don_t have to rush_.

TikTok hypes are so fleeting that it is better for most companies not to pay attention to them. “You are by definition too late if you spot it and still have to get on board_” Edelkoort explains.

It is better to stick to what you do and what works for you. Is a striped blouse a bestseller? Make new variations of it_ for example one with different stripes or a contrasting insert_ she advises. That shows you dare_ attracts attention and strengthens your main products_ just like manufacturer Philips once demonstrated: its orange vacuum cleaner helped sell the blue ones.

This recommendation ties in with Edelkoort_s broader vision_ in which authenticity is central – something she considers essential in times when everything seems to be going wrong. She introduces the concept of favor for this: an attitude characterised by care_ thoughtfulness and human scale. This is diametrically opposed to the rushed and superficial way of working that is often the norm in the fashion world_ and beyond.

She advises designers and brands to constantly ask themselves_ with everything they make_ whether it actually adds value and truly has a right to exist. It is precisely this authenticity_ she argues_ that can provide direction in a time of uncertainty.

Sources:
- The trend seminar _Animalism_ and _Instincts_ by Lidewij Edelkoort at Modefabriek_ Monday_ July 8_ 2025.
- AI tools were used as writing aids.