LFW AW26: Julien Macdonald and Joseph return to a packed schedule

As the global fashion industry turns its attention to London_ there is a renewed focus on British designers and brands under the leadership of Laura Weir_ chief executive of the British Fashion Council_ for the February edition of London Fashion Week_ with the return of Julien Macdonald_ Phoebe English_ and Joseph to the schedule.

Running from Thursday_ February 19 to Monday_ February 23_ London Fashion Week will feature 92 designers and organisations_ marking an 21 percent increase compared to last February_ as the BFC continues its "designer-first" strategy_ waiving show fees for designers presenting physically on the main schedule.

This season_ LFW will feature 41 catwalk shows_ 20 presentations_ 5 appointments_ 34 events and 18 digital activations_ including Burberry_ Emilia Wickstead_ Erdem_ Richard Quinn_ Labrum London_ and Simone Rocha_ as well as Chet Lo_ John Richmond and Masha Popova returning to the schedule. There will also be a chance to see the new director for Joseph from creative director Mario Arena_ who joined the premium label in 2024 from JW Anderson.

There are also a host of newcomers_ including sculptural womenswear label Agro Studio_ accessories designer Clara Chu_ Afro-contemporary menswear brand Gravalot_ womenswear label Liberowe_ craft-led Indian brand Raw Mango_ London-based fashion label Selasi_ founded by multidisciplinary artist and photographer Ronan Mckenzie and Leo Prothmann.

Julien Macdonald to return to LFW

The biggest addition to this season_s schedule has to be the return of Welsh designer Julien Macdonald_ who is showcasing for the first time in three years following his brand's liquidation in 2023. The highly anticipated return will take place at The Shard_ marking the first time a catwalk show has been held at the iconic London landmark_ and as it will be on the 69th floor_ it will also be one of the highest fashion shows ever held in the capital.

In an interview with FashionUnited_ Macdonald said his return will add “much-needed glamour” to the London Fashion Week schedule_ as it will be a celebration of “women and femininity”.

Macdonald added: “This collection_s starting point was The Shard_ it_s strong_ powerful and confident_ and stands out in the London skyscape - just like the women I dress. It also represents the New World being built around us_ like Qatar_ Abu Dhabi and Dubai_ the new luxury customer.”

William Costelloe to present first collection for Paul Costelloe

All eyes will also be on William Costelloe_ who debuts as creative director of Paul Costelloe following the passing of the brand's eponymous founder and his father in November 2025. Appointed in January_ Costelloe was previously design director at the London-based brand for the past seven years_ working closely with his father on the development of the brand_s seasonal catwalk shows.

On Instagram_ the brand shared an update from the designer stating his first collection_ which opens LFW on February 19_ would carry forward “the house codes of craftsmanship_ confidence and modern elegance”.

"I'll have his words in my head and feel his great hands on my shoulders. He will always be my inspiration_" added Costelloe.

LFW more than just catwalk shows

Under Weir_s direction_ LFW is continuing to evolve as a flexible and innovative platform_ with many designers this season opting to embrace more “intentional formats that suit their business needs_” explains the BFC.

This includes designers such as Phoebe English_ 16Arlington_ Chopova Lowena_ Kazna Asker_ Stephen Jones Millinery_ Malone Souliers_ and Milan-based Fiorucci_ opting to showcase presentations_ while Talia Byre is hosting a screening_ and London-based womenswear label A Letter_ founded by designers Matt Empringham and Freddy Coomes_ formerly known as Aletta_ is presenting an exhibition for its autumn/winter 2026 collection_ which will also be open to the public.

Other designers creating their own retail-led environments_ blurring the lines between show_ store and cultural space_ including Chet Lo who will spotlight Asian makers through a dedicated market_ while London-based luxury fashion label KNWLS_ founded in 2017 by Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault_ is skipping the traditional catwalk show this season to unveil an immersive retail space that will be “part store_ part exhibition_ and part community hub” celebrating fashion_ art_ food_ music and literature.

British designer Nicholas Daley will also be hosting a pop-up showcase featuring his spring/summer 2026 collection_ bringing together craft_ design and community_ while Swedish retailer H&M is returning to LFW with an immersive townhouse takeover.

Jewellery on display at LFW

With the jewellery sector identified as a key category for growth in 2026_ LFW features a host of jewellery brands and designers on the schedule. This includes London-based jewellery and accessories brand Completedworks_ known for sculptural jewellery and ceramics_ which has previously showcased theatrical presentations featuring actresses Joanna Lumley_ Dianna Agron and Lily Cole. The AW26 show will also debut the brand's first-ever sneaker design in collaboration with Japanese sportswear brand Asics_ where founder Anna Jewsbury has embellished the sneakers with mismatched gems_ pearlescent bows_ and floral elements.

There will also be several emerging brands_ including NewGen recipients_ The Ouze_ founded by self-taught jeweller Toby Vernon_ and Octi_ a jewellery label focused on sculptural_ tactile pieces hand-carved from recycled metals.

There will also be a BFC jewellery showcase with a curation of pieces for sale from a selection of BFC Foundation designers and BFC Designer Members_ taking place at Dover Street Market.

BFC launches the LFW Designer Showcase

This season_ the BFC is launching the LFW Designer Showcase_ a new platform designed to connect designers directly with local and international industry experts_ “shifting towards purpose-driven creativity with real commercial outcomes”.

Running from February 20 to 23_ the showcase at 180 Strand will spotlight a cohort of designers at the “forefront of British fashion_” including Aaron Esh_ Ahluwalia_ Bleue Burnham_ Clio Peppiatt_ Clothsurgeon_ E.W.Usie_ Johanna Parv_ Nicholas Daley_ Steve O Smith_ Talia Byre and Thevxlley.