Kenzo PFW AW26: A return to Kenzo Takada's home as a narrative of refuge
Kenzo has returned to the home of label's founder Kenzo Takada. During a period of economic uncertainty_ Nigo_ artistic director of the Kenzo brand (LVMH)_ chose to present the autumn/winter 2026/2027 collection in the intimate and poetic setting of the late Kenzo Takada's home.
At 8 Rue Sedaine in Paris_ architect Xavier de Castella designed a peaceful haven for fashion designer Kenzo Takada: a house with wood panelling; a Japanese garden; a meditation space; and a pond. Kenzo Takada lived there until 2009. Today_ it is inhabited by Isabelle and Olivier Chouvet_ founders of The Independents (group of luxury creative agencies)
It was here that Nigo presented his autumn/winter 2026/2027 collection_ with a desire to “return to the roots”. Back to basics: the storytelling is based on the idea of exploring the brand's past operations and adapting them for the upcoming season.
The collection is firmly rooted in revival_ featuring a display of two vintage pieces and reflecting Nigo's intention to draw from the house's heritage.
Wardrobe compiles American_ Asian and European references amid geopolitical turbulence
The visual codes of the autumn/winter 2026/2027 wardrobe are linked to the history and archetypes of American daily life: workwear; jeans; western shirts; and varsity jackets. These are complemented by Asian motifs_ such as braided or sheathed cord closures (a traditional Chinese knot closure or pankou detail) and kimonos_ alongside nods to Italian tailoring.
The collection includes the return of the tiger from the Kenzo Jungle line of the 1980s; the re-release of the Kite bag (1986)_ available as a shoulder bag and a tote; and the use of the letter 'K'. As for new additions_ Nigo introduces the Kenzogram_ a new motif for the brand's name.
While a checkerboard pattern appears on some pieces_ it is the embroidered or printed flowers that capture the attention_ starting with a printed tank top that could well become a bestseller.
Ultimately_ it was a restrained presentation that contrasted with previous shows and those of other LVMH brands_ offering a moment of respite in a market shaken by political turmoil.
