Issey Miyake: How IM Men explores new design methods

IM Men_ part of the Japanese fashion house Issey Miyake_ is currently hosting an exhibition at the Berlin-based retailer Andreas Murkudis. The autumn/winter 2025 collection is now also available there. This initiative aims to establish the brand in the German market and bring it closer to customers.

What is behind the menswear brand_ what makes it so special_ and how does it follow Miyake's philosophy of creating garments from a single piece of cloth? Head designers Sen Kawahara_ Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi explain.

How does IM Men differ from other brands in the Issey Miyake universe?

Sen Kawahara_ Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi: We pursue Miyake_s philosophy of “a piece of cloth” from the perspective of menswear. One of our strengths and defining characteristics lies in our methodology of creation_ which brings together design and engineering as a team effort. Rather than limiting ourselves to specific techniques such as pleats_ we actively incorporate diverse approaches to explore new methods of making and new forms of beauty. This also opens up possibilities for design that emerges from engineering itself.

The concept is based on exploring new possibilities in design and production while creating functional products. How do you approach this?

Some typical examples are the flat-foldable and compact design_ crease-resistant and lightweight material_ design with an awareness of human movement; and manufacturing from a single piece of fabric.

This seems to bring together many different skills...

The design team at IM Men works closely together and consists of members who are experienced in both design and engineering. Each of us is not only able to design_ but also to oversee the process right through to production.

Among the three core members of the team_ Sen Kawahara and Yuki Itakura come from pattern-making_ while Nobutaka Kobayashi specializes in textiles. Each members also draws on experience in other fields — from shoes and bags to eyewear and lighting — which adds to the range of ideas and techniques we can bring into our work.

At IM Men_ we also focus on developing our own textiles_ and here too_ interdisciplinary knowledge is the key to new ways of thinking and unique perspectives.

The Homme Plissé team travels to get to know different countries and their inhabitants. Where does the inspiration for IM Men come from?

Everything we encounter in everyday life. The same goes for what we experience while traveling_ as with the Homme Plissé team_ as well as the many opportunities we have to see exhibitions_ film works_ and more. We are always attentive to the things that move us.

You use different approaches to present your collections_ such as performances and exhibitions. What difference do these types of presentation make?

The performance of a show is not only about presenting styling_ but also about expressing the relationship with the body and the more spiritual aspects. In contrast_ an exhibition serves as a place to highlight other perspectives such as textiles and structures that cannot be fully conveyed in the limited time of a show. It also reflects our intention to create opportunities that are more open and accessible to a wider audience.

What can visitors expect at 'Fly With IM Men' in the Andreas Murkudis store?

Unique products from IM Men_ created by combining traditional Japanese techniques with the latest technology. Our approach and aesthetic differ from Western traditions as they are rooted in the 'a piece of cloth'_ the design philosophy of Issey Miyake.Most importantly_ this exhibition allows the audiences experience the textures and three-dimensionality of the garments something that cannot be fully conveyed through images or video.

To what extent does the exhibition tie in with existing collections?

The exhibition is based on the autumn/winter 2025/26 collection_ which was presented in Paris in January 2025_ followed by the exhibition immediately afterwards. From this collection_ which began with the creation of textiles_ representative products have been selected for display.

The exhibition started in Paris and then travelled to Japan - Tokyo and Osaka. Berlin is now the fourth city. The presentation is adapted to each space_ offering a unique experience in each location.

This interview was conducted in writing.