India_s AK|OK Anamika Khanna makes LFW debut

Indian designer Anamika Khanna took over the iconic toy store Hamleys on Regent Street in London to make her London Fashion Week debut for her label AK|OK_ which launched in 2021 and has been slowly expanding globally_ including launching in Saks Fifth Avenue in the US last year.

Khanna is a well-known designer in her native country_ renowned for her couture_ custom-made outfits for Bollywood stars and celebrities_ including Priyanka Chopra_ Deepika Padukone and Jennifer Lopez_ and her ready-to-wear line_ AK|OK_ aims to offer a new direction in Indian fashion.

The label was set up as a 60:40 joint venture with Reliance Brands Limited_ India_s largest luxury retailer_ part of Reliance Industries Limited_ which acquired Hamleys earlier this year. When the brand launched_ Reliance said the move was to offer “a unique design philosophy to Indian and global consumers_” encapsulating India_s rich craftsmanship and nuances_ while offering silhouettes “that transcend geographies”.

For spring/summer 2026_ Khanna was driven by nostalgia_ Indian heritage_ as well as a fusion between India and London to offer a contemporary and modern take on traditional Indian attire_ stripped of ceremony and reworked with jeans_ skirts_ and boots. Khanna reworked an Angarkha_ a traditional outer robe typically worn by men_ into new and modern silhouettes_ while Chikankari embroidery_ long revered as delicate and formal_ transformed coats styled over slouchy pants.

The collection offered subtle Indian details tailored for a Western audience to drive the reach of the brand. It wasn_t overwhelmed by craft or embroidery_ but rather a contemporary layering of styles_ from tailored oversized blazers to floaty dresses_ transparent detailing_ striking metallic embroidery bralettes and saris emboldened with graphic prints inspired by Indian mythology and astrology.

“This is not about guarding tradition_ nor abandoning it. It is about transformation_ allowing heritage to breathe in the present moment. It is about finding ease_ removing layers_ letting one piece shine on its own. It is about freedom within the frame of memory_” explains the label in the show notes.

The collection also challenged the assumption that Indian silver jewellery is “too ethnic” or “too formal_” pairing jewellery and chainmail details in a modern context with silhouettes that floated around Hamley_s shelves filled with toy cars_ Barbie dolls and Lego sets.

Khanna added: “For so many years_ eastern culture has been perceived as costume_ not wearable in everyday life. But whenever I use jewellery_ people want to wear it with jeans. It_s about looking at these elements in a modern way_ whether they belong today.

“Our brand bridges the gap between how dressing in India has always been perceived and the reality_ that it is very modern.”

AK|OK Anamika Khanna showcases SS26 collection during London Fashion Week

To find out more about AK|OK_s vision and global ambitions_ FashionUnited chatted to Khanna about her creative process_ the collection and show venue_ what sustainability means to her and what her plans are for AK|OK.

What inspired you to launch a fashion label with no formal training?

For me_ it actually happened by chance. I won a design competition_ and when I actually had to make my first outfit_ I realised that I was perhaps just born for this. So_ training or not_ I've been through various stages in life that have been as good as formal training or informal training. Now_ I feel like I just live for this.

How do you begin your creative process?

The creative process has different forms. Sometimes it could be inspired by something little_ like a piece of fabric_ a colour_ or just an emotion. Sometimes the inspiration comes from the desperation of a deadline_ and you_ve got to deliver. Other times_ it comes from keeping parameters in mind as to who your client is and what season you're working with.

What_s the inspiration behind your spring/summer 2026 collection?

This is a collection very close to my heart. We started with this journey of a cool London city girl who has her roots in India_ with an Indian grandmother living in Rajasthan. She goes there_ and she finds these special_ precious pieces in her trunk_ and brings them back to London_ and that's the starting point of the collection.

It is about nostalgia_ about rediscovering what we have back home in more modern_ contemporary ways_ and it's about preserving and cherishing something that we've always had.

Why did you want to showcase during London Fashion Week?

AK|OK has always had global ambitions. That's how the brand had started_ and London came naturally_ because I find it very_ very receptive and open to new ideas and very acceptable to different kinds of communities and people. London allows you to be who you are.

What was behind your decision to showcase at Hamley?

There is this feeling of nostalgia in the collection. This girl goes back to her grandmother_s home after many years_ and it evokes these childhood memories. The same feeling comes when you enter Hamleys; everyone is transported back. It felt like the right emotional connection.

How would you describe your brand_s aesthetic?

Easy and versatile. My brand is all about just being comfortable with who you are_ and being almost fearless in wearing the clothes like you want to. It does not have any age boundaries or limitations; it's basically building a way of life_ and that way of life is that everything is okay.

What does sustainability in fashion mean to you_ and how do you implement sustainable practices into your designs?

Sustainability_ for me_ is a realisation that it's not all about quality_ or producing things that have multiple uses or a life-after-use_ but that the pieces go beyond time and can be passed on for generations. There is also the consciousness of how we produce_ what materials we use_ and how we think about our collections_ such as the emotions that we want to pass down_ which I also think is a very important aspect of sustainability.

What_s next for AK|OK? What are the goals for your label in the next 12 months?

AK|OK has started its global footprint. We are expanding our base in India and also looking to expand internationally in different parts of the world. AK|OK will also launch at least three new categories in the next 12 months.

What are the biggest challenges facing your business?

Challenges come every day - from deadlines to designing for the customer_ and expectations_ as well as managing the kind of collections we make for different parts of the world and tariff changes. They're all challenges_ but they're good challenges. I think every challenge makes you stronger and better.

Last year_ you collaborated with H&M - what did you learn from that experience?

My biggest learning with H&M was the power of planning and pre-planning and planning again_ and pre-planning again. Just being ready before everything_ ensuring that not a drop of wastage through sustainability_ and being ready and precise_ was a game-changer.

One piece of advice you_d give a student fashion designer starting out?

Find your roots and stay true to yourself. That's the only way you'll make it. That's what works for us_ I'm not scared to say where I come from and what I'm proud of_ and that's what makes AK|OK standout.