Imperfect_ transformative and full of illusions: Menswear trends from Milan

Milan Fashion Week for the autumn/winter 2026 season did not feature a packed schedule. Few major names presented their collections in the fashion capital. Nevertheless_ there were several fashion highlights that explored themes of change and transformation.

Here is an overview of the latest trends from Milan.

Imperfect

Things got a little rougher at the Milan menswear shows this season. Several brands deviated from the perfect look_ most notably Prada. The Italian fashion house intentionally “soiled” its shirts_ showed wrinkled coats and fabric manipulations intended to represent wear and tear.

Meanwhile_ the London-based brand Qasimi presented various hole-ridden pieces that looked as if they had been eaten by moths. Domenico Orefice's commitment to imperfection was less obvious but still clearly recognisable. The Italian brand showed a black and green striped shirt_ among other things_ where the black_ applied horizontal stripes were frayed at the edges.

Trompe l'œil

Trompe l'œil was used by various brands for a wide range of pieces this season. London-based designer Saul Nash imitated pinstripes with a print on a suit and presented a cut-out top_ including on a simple T-shirt. Milan-based designer Domenico Orefice used the concept to apply a necklace to a top.

Ludovico Bruno_ who has also been creative director for the Canadian outerwear brand Moose Knuckles since the end of last year_ played with a type of faux fur for his own brand_ Mordecai. Instead of imitating the texture_ he printed the fur look onto various jackets.

Inside out

The reversible jacket is not a new concept in the sports and outdoor sector. It is usually designed for functionality_ often compromising on design. Oakley proves that it can be done differently with its fashionable ski jacket_ which sits between streetwear and sportswear. Instead of concealing the inner pockets_ the brand skilfully showcases them_ presenting not just two different colours_ but two different jackets.

Ten C also integrated the theme into its presentation. The Italian outerwear specialist gave a preview of its latest capsule with the Japanese menswear brand Comoli. This includes a two-piece set consisting of a jacket and trousers_ as well as a coat.

This twist was not limited to sporty_ urban looks. The Italian fashion house Prada also showed several simpler trench coats that concealed a different fabric and an additional button placket on the inside.

It's all in the mix

While many brands focus on one material per piece_ some designers also play with a mix. The Italian label Maragno brings together different fabrics and textures sourced as deadstock from major fashion houses like Max Mara_ explained the eponymous designer at his presentation. In the looks_ the second fabric is integrated as an insert on the sleeve_ among other places. The brands DSquared2 and Mordecai combine denim with synthetic fabrics for various jacket models.

Deep dive

Inspiration is increasingly being drawn from the 2010s_ replacing Y2K_ a trend that has been emerging for several seasons. For AW26_ designers seem to have focused on the neckline. These are now becoming deeper again_ whether as a crew neck or a V-neck.

They do not yet reach the navel; stylists would rather omit the T-shirt under the jacket altogether. However_ they do offer a much deeper glimpse than before. Such styles were seen at Prada_ DSquared2 and Dolce & Gabbana_ among others.

Ski coats

In the outerwear and sports specialist sector_ there was a trend towards longer ski jackets. Compared to the previously popular puffer coat_ these pieces_ seen at brands like K-Way and Oakley_ not only have an urban look but also all the functions needed for the slopes.

There were further differences in the silhouettes. While K-Way presented a straight-cut model_ the Chinese sporting goods manufacturer Li-Ning showed several versions of a wide-cut coat_ whose shape was reminiscent of capes or wingsuits.

Wildest shoes

Finally_ the focus shifts downwards. In Milan_ two brands particularly caught the eye with their shoes. Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata_ who is behind the Milan-based brand Setchu_ presented various shoe models_ from flat sandals to boots_ that were woven from straw.

The luxury label DSquared2 focused on the ski boot with its winter sports-inspired collection_ offering various models for women and men. In menswear_ the shoe was mixed with a cowboy boot_ while in womenswear it was transformed into a high-heeled boot.