How a furrier blends tradition and reinvention

When discussing fashion_ the first thing that comes to mind is often the image of a finished product. This could be a dress_ a catwalk_ or perhaps a shop window. Fashion_ however_ begins much earlier. The creation of that product involves a process that passes through a creative's imagination_ the crafting of the piece and_ crucially_ the involvement of specialised suppliers.

Within the world of supply_ one area that has evolved over time is that of furriers. Furriers have existed for centuries; the use of skins for clothing dates back to pre-Hispanic times_ but this does not mean the industry has remained static. Garments made with fur have held multiple meanings_ from a symbol of social status to a subject of sustainability debates. This long history has caused the work of furriers to change over time_ not only by specialising their techniques but also by innovating with materials. Now is a key moment for further changes to be made.

FashionUnited spoke with Lizbeth Díaz_ director of Peletería Lofarey in Mexico City_ to explore the evolution of this sector. According to the expert_ a furrier today is more than just a place to find skins. It now encompasses more_ serving as a point-of-sale for fine leathers_ hardware_ and other tools for upholstery_ leather goods_ and saddlery_ or any accessory made from leather_ faux leather_ or synthetics. Díaz comments that to create is the art of transformation. In this case_ creating fashion means transforming raw material. Fashion_ therefore_ begins with questions such as: What size? What colour? Matte or glossy? What texture? Embossed_ printed_ or plain? The director shares that these questions are part of the daily operations of the furrier_ which has over 65 years of history. For her_ these questions are the first step in turning raw material into a living design.

Diversification: key to an industry that withstands the test of time

Leather used to have a reputation as the best ally for manufacturing resistant and durable items. Over time_ the market began to seek materials that went beyond the simple and conventional. This new public interest led to the acceptance of what many know as “faux leather” or “synthetic leather”. Initially_ these types of materials did not compete with the quality of leather_ but the technology behind them has improved substantially over the years.

The plasticised texture of the first synthetics has improved so significantly that it is now difficult to identify at a glance whether a product is made from genuine leather. The combination of the quality of these alternative materials and growing ecological awareness among consumers have been important factors in promoting the use of textiles and synthetics to replace the previously high consumption of animal skin. Nevertheless_ there has recently been a resurgence of interest in working with leather_ focusing on its durability_ which is creating a balance in the demand for different types of materials.

Another trend that has driven the industry's evolution in recent years is the growing consumer involvement in the garments they wear and the customisation options available to them. Previously_ footwear_ bags_ and belts were mass-produced in seasonal colours with a limited number of designs. Díaz explains that today_ through the customisation of these items_ consumers are offered the opportunity to get involved by choosing the raw material. The range of options is expanding in such a way that the consumer and the designer now establish a closer relationship.

A new proposal for a long-standing business

According to the director of Peletería Lofarey_ the key to staying current in an industry with centuries of history lies in keeping up-to-date and studying trends. This is not only to select the offering of raw materials but also to constantly renew the business itself.

The Mexican company aims to be more than just a retail space; it strives to be a place of inspiration and freedom for creatives. To achieve this_ the team has committed to researching trends in the fashion world to act as consultants and allies to their clients_ rather than just suppliers. They further unveiled a revamped point-of-sale concept_ “a reinvented furrier” as the director describes it_ which integrates technology_ over 600 samples of textiles_ leathers_ and synthetics on display_ and an immense colour palette.

Part of the reinvention of the Peletería Lofarey concept began with the customer experience. This is not usually the first thing that comes to mind when it comes to suppliers_ as the concept of experience is more commonly associated with the end customer. To change this_ the point-of-sale ceased to be the traditional shop with a counter and rolls of leather at the back_ as it had been for decades. The store is now a gallery where the raw material is within the client's reach. Entering the furrier is like stepping into a wardrobe where one can explore the displayed samples by sight and touch. Being able to see the possibilities in this way has become one of the main differentiators in making the decision to select the right item for the creation in progress. Thus_ clients and creatives can immerse themselves in a world of nuances; sheens; warm and cool colours; and iridescent and reflective materials that unleash their imagination.

“It is a fact that everything changes and transforms over time. Evolution is imminent_ and we were no exception. However_ it is important to identify the pillars that must continue to uphold the essence of this place. That is why our slogan is clear: _your style_ our quality_. We want to be allies to creatives_ so they can transform raw materials into magnificent designs_ knowing they are backed by a company that prioritises quality_” stated the director_ Lizbeth Díaz.

Carmen Reyes_ co-founder of Peletería Lofarey_ shared with FashionUnited that every business evolves in proportion to the needs of its clients. “Today_ young people represent Mexico's workforce_ and many of them are starting their own businesses. It is our responsibility to provide them with a space where their creativity is inspired and their vision and imagination can find the raw materials to bring each and every one of their inspirations to the manufacturing floor.” Creating a space that is not just a counter but an experience responds both to the needs of new generations and to the goal of evolving the supplier's role in the relationship with its clients.

For his part_ Rafael López_ sales manager_ highlighted the importance of diversifying materials_ giving clients more options to bring their concepts to life. He pointed out: “It is essential that the raw material has quality_ resistance_ fashion_ and versatility. That is why_ in addition to offering materials that the market itself has determined as _basics__ at Lofarey we are committed to offering exclusive materials_ previously selected and imported directly from China_ in order to make them available to the Mexican market and thereby encourage the belief that what is made in Mexico is well made.”

Reinvention capacity: what keeps an industry relevant

As part of reinventing the role of a furrier_ the directors shared that diversification must now occur not only in the product but also in the services offered. To remain relevant to clients at a time when time is key_ one must become a space where they can find more than one solution. To this end_ they expanded their service offerings to include bonding and textile sublimation_ as well as synthetic lamination. These processes are essential for many accessory production chains_ as they streamline production times and consequently achieve a notable increase in manufacturing quality.

Digitalisation_ the era of immediate information_ and the rapid technological changes of our time have caused every sphere of a design's manufacturing chain to evolve_ even those sectors with centuries of history. However_ in the niche of clothing_ accessories_ and saddlery_ it remains essential to feel and experience the raw material first-hand. That part of the process must be carried out in person to successfully combine a style with its ideal texture. The evolution of industries like the furrier's_ therefore_ is moving towards a space with more presence_ towards a sensory experience where creatives can pause_ look_ feel_ smell_ and imagine.

“Our goal was to create that space where thousands of possibilities live. A space where you find yourself surrounded by a universe of colours_ textures_ and reliefs. Where creatives manage to give shape to and make their ideas tangible. We seek to create the place where they find the ideal raw material that meets the desired and necessary characteristics for their project_ and to become a key ally for the creation of designs. That is the mission that Lofarey proudly works on every day_” concluded the director.