Heavy loads and wisecracks: The SS26 trends of the men's fashion weeks

The merging of street and business attire appears to be the theme of the spring/summer 2026 menswear season. This gradual process_ which had already begun in previous years_ has now become established. Does this mean that the sometimes humorous and playful style_ which appeals to a younger target audience_ is being lost?

The SS26 menswear collections prove that growing up also involves a touch of humour. Life_ and the global sentiment shaped by wars and crises_ is serious enough anyway.

Boxer shorts

Trousers are slipping lower again_ in homage to the 1990s hip-hop style_ revealing puffed-up boxer shorts. Brands like Études and Dolce & Gabbana also exhibit_ however_ that the look doesn't have to rely solely on streetwear. Boxer shorts can also serve as a contrast in a classic outfit with a suit and shirt.

XXL bermudas vs. short shorts

Speaking of shorts_ there seem to be two teams when it comes to “short” trousers for SS26. On the one hand_ pants are getting shorter and shorter_ as seen at Prada_ Saint Laurent and Marke.

While the German label Marke still adds some volume to the piece_ similar to a bubble skirt_ the other two fashion houses display shorts that could almost pass as underwear.

In contrast to the 'short' shorts are pants for men who prefer to feel a light breeze and for whom trousers cannot be wide and long enough. Brands like C.R.E.O.L.E and PDF show extra-large Bermuda shorts with many patterns – an XXL version of the loose swimming trunks that go far beyond the knee. Sacai_ meanwhile_ opts for a more restrained and chic version_ not designed for the beach.

Wisecrackers

No one could avoid “cheeky slogans” and quotes this season_ which lie somewhere between posts on the social media platform Tumblr in the 2010s_ wall tattoos and today_s WhatsApp statuses. The various pieces were mostly kept simple_ thus putting the spotlight particularly on the slogan.

Designer Mihara Yasuhiro didn_t directly integrate such a look into his collection_ but during the finale_ he himself walked the catwalk in a wide grey T-shirt with “Don_t Tag Me” written on it in bright yellow block letters.

Mini prints

In addition to the slogans_ all-over prints with small_ simple drawings were also popular. Either motifs for jackets and T-shirts were multiplied or different graphics were combined to create one large overall picture in the style of hidden-object puzzles.

Workwear suits

Workwear has always been an important part of streetwear. This isn't changing with the move towards a more classic look. Such a direction was illustrated on the catwalk with overalls_ which were either straight or loosely cut_ depending on the material. Under one-piece garments_ models typically wore simple shirts_ sometimes even with a tie. This factory worker-inspired look was loosened up with casual styling_ utilising sandals or a wool hat_ bringing all three segments together.

Traditional costumes

Tradition and modernity also came together in the brands that were inspired by folk clothing_ who then gave it a personal touch. The Berlin-based label Richert Beil_ for example_ showed a version of the classic Lederhosen in a black latex look. Craig Green_ meanwhile_ presented some wide_ traditional-style leather belt straps with floral decorations reminiscent of the Alpine region.

Jonathan Anderson_ meanwhile_ followed in the footsteps of the founder Christian Dior and his interest in English culture for his Dior debut. Various floral embroideries were part of the collection – including a garland of flowers that stretched across a waistcoat.

Burden on the shoulders

This season_ there seemed to be a particular focus on the shoulders in outerwear – perhaps as a visualisation of the burden currently on the fashion industry due to weak consumer sentiment. Silhouettes were particularly voluminous on the upper body – also similar to a protective armour – and mostly straight on the legs. 3.Paradis equipped a blazer with a huge spike on the sleeve.

Collars also seemed to be getting pointier and larger_ sometimes extending far above the shoulders on open shirts in the style of the 1970s and 1980s. Close-fitting accessories such as scarves were tied around the neck.

Accessories to watch

Lavallière

The short neckerchief – with a tight or loose knot – has become one of the most popular menswear accessories to enhance a casual look in recent years. In addition_ the designers of Men_s Fashion Week proved that the classic tie doesn_t always have to be stuffy. Nevertheless_ another piece also seemed to be joining it to create the stylish yet casual summer look.

Brands such as Wales Bonner_ System and Orange Culture Nigeria adorned their models with a lavallière scarf. The accessory_ which lies somewhere between a silk scarf and a tie_ and is particularly distinguished by slanted edges_ was tied with a very loose knot. It was striking that all three brands presented the piece in the same tone as the respective shirt_ so it didn_t immediately stand out.

Statement belts

Much more striking were the large belt buckles_ which showed individual letters or even whole words. After the large trucker-style belt buckles had already made a comeback in recent years as part of the Y2K trend_ it was clear that this type of belt would also find its way back into the limelight. Now all that_s missing is the return of the belt with an LED display.