Haute couture: Moment of truth for Matthieu Blazy at Chanel
Will Matthieu Blazy build on his success at Chanel? Following a highly praised womenswear collection in October_ Paris eagerly awaits the designer's first haute couture show on Tuesday. This unprecedented undertaking will be closely scrutinised.
The show_ held as usual at the Grand Palais in the morning_ is the highlight of this haute couture week_ alongside Jonathan Anderson's presentation for Dior. The 41-year-old Northern Irish designer unveiled an initial bucolic vision featuring floral silhouettes that were both sculptural and ethereal.
Pastoral inspiration at the Grand Palais
Nature will also be a key theme at Chanel. In addition to a mushroom-shaped pendant sent as an invitation_ the double-C brand unveiled a short behind-the-scenes film on social media on Sunday. The film revealed a distinctly pastoral tone for this debut collection.
Blending live-action and animation_ the trailer shows the Chanel ateliers where small forest animals—squirrels_ badgers_ rabbits and birds—take over from the 'petites mains' once they have left. They are seen busily crafting a white smocked dress embellished with touches of yellow_ red and black_ reminiscent of the world of Cinderella.
Recruited from Bottega Veneta (Kering) in December 2024_ the 41-year-old Franco-Belgian designer has the formidable task of embodying the Chanel line and turning the page on the Karl Lagerfeld era. The 'Kaiser' reigned for over three decades. His right-hand woman_ Virginie Viard_ succeeded him upon his death in 2019_ before abruptly leaving the brand in June 2024.
Critically acclaimed debut
For his first collection_ presented in October under the glass roof of the Grand Palais_ which was transformed into an impressive galaxy_ the designer played with the house's founding codes_ blending heritage and modernity. The collection featured frayed tweed ensembles; colourful knitwear; trouser suits worn on the hips; and shirts paired with imposing feathered skirts.
The show attracted numerous stars_ from Pedro Pascal and Nicole Kidman to Angèle and Aya Nakamura. It concluded with a standing ovation and rave reviews.
“This first show was extremely joyful_” recalled Astrid Faguer_ fashion journalist at Les Échos Week-end_ noting the finale which featured the radiant smile of model Awar Odhiang. It was a welcome moment amidst a challenging news climate and the economic turbulence facing the luxury sector.
Challenge of savoir-faire
According to the journalist_ the challenge of this first foray into haute couture will be to see “how he will interpret the house codes this time in a version that is even more focused on savoir-faire and more couture than what we have seen before”.
Matthieu Blazy has already demonstrated his technical mastery during the Métiers d'art show presented in December in New York_ a memorable show held in the subway. More recently_ on the Golden Globes red carpet_ the black sheath dress with a white feather-adorned neckline worn by Selena Gomez caused a sensation.
New era at Armani
Another highlight of the day will be Armani's presentation in the early evening. This will be the Italian house's first haute couture collection without the supervision of its founder Giorgio_ who passed away in early September at the age of 91.
“There will probably be no revolution_ but it will be interesting to see how the new chapter unfolds within a house so embodied by its historic founder_” noted Pierre Groppo_ head of fashion and lifestyle at Vanity Fair France.
In total_ 28 houses will present their creations until Thursday. These are primarily intended for red carpets_ major jet-set events and galas.