Haute Couture AW25: Which shows will influence the fashion of seasons to come?
Among the highlights of Paris Haute Couture Week in July 2025_ after Demna's final show for Balenciaga_ the autumn/winter 2025/2026 Couture collections paved the way for fashion that is both artisanal and technological. Upcycling was joyfully celebrated by Glenn Martens for Maison Margiela and Germanier. Respect for nature was at the heart of Ronald van der Kemp and Iris van Herpen's innovative creative process.
Naturally_ the absence of renowned designers was also noticeable at this fashion week_ partly due to the reshuffling of major fashion houses. Jonathan Anderson has reserved his first Dior haute couture collection for January 2026_ while Duran Lantink will debut at Jean Paul Gaultier in September 2026_ marking the end of the brand's former Guest Designer model and the return to ready-to-wear collections. Alessandro Michele (Valentino)_ and Matthieu Blazy_ the new creative director for Chanel_ which took part for now without Blazy_ were also absent_ as were French houses like Alexis Mabille and Julien Fournié.
Balenciaga: Demna being Demna before his departure for Gucci
In terms of farewells_ we look to Demna's last show for Balenciaga_ held in the intimate setting of the house's historic salons on Avenue George V_ Paris 8ᵉ. Intimate_ in a manner of speaking_ as the crowd amassed at the entrance to see the cohort of stars invited to the front row_ such as Aya Nakamura_ Katy Perry_ Nicole Kidman_ Lauren Sánchez Bezos and Cardi B. Kim Kardashian_ Isabelle Huppert and Naomi Campbell were among those walking the runway.
The show's soundtrack listed the first names of the collaborators_ ending with Demna and followed by the song "No Ordinary Love" by Sade. A reflection of his extraordinary fashion_ the show showcased his signature designs_ which could also be found in the exhibition dedicated to him. Among them were women's suits with oversized shoulders and structured couture dresses_ oversized men's jackets_ and a tribute to the nightdress worn by Elizabeth Taylor in the film "Cat on a Hot Tin Roof" for Kardashian.
The only nod to his predilection for streetwear_ absent from the show_ was an unprecedented act. Demna took a turn around the catwalk dressed in a black hoodie_ oversized military print trousers_ and a baseball cap. Backstage_ he said_ according to 'The Cut': "I feel outed in a hoodie_ jeans_ and a baseball cap." A clever hint that everything will change with his position as head designer at Gucci_ where his first show is scheduled for March 2026.
Maison Margiela and Germanier: the future of fashion will embrace the joy of upcycling
Glenn Martens' first collection_ 'Artisanal_' the name of the house's couture line_ embodied the fusion of couture and street culture. As a tribute to Martin Margiela_ the founder of the eponymous brand_ the new creative director presented his collection at the Centquatre in Paris_ where Martin Margiela had held his last show.
Martens embraced the house's DNA: recycling_ upcycling_ anonymity_ and the repurposing of objects. He chose a decor made of torn wallpaper. He covered the models' faces with masks made of crushed metal cans_ lacquered paper_ and illusion tulle. The looks were created from crumpled plastic bags. A striking gold dress was made from recycled computer cables.
Glenn Martens demonstrated that couture can pave the way for a new_ more ecological and ethical fashion production. The future of fashion lies in the ability of fashion houses to adapt to the remaining natural resources. Couture plays an important role in this_ as it is artisanal_ experimental_ and artistic.
Recycling is also the strength of Swiss designer Kevin Germanier. He told FashionUnited: "The day my couture is no longer made from recycled materials_ it's no longer worth attending my shows." Regarding his collection 'Les Joueuses'_ the press release states: "We live in difficult times: politically_ socially_ economically. My job is to bring light_ and that drives my work. This collection is a direct response to that. I wanted joy on the runway." This sets him apart from a certain reluctance to work with fabric scraps.
Upcycled leather silhouettes from the 2025 Eurovision Song Contest_ his signature weaving technique with reclaimed beads_ a finale dress made of recycled Japanese paper and feathers from previous collections. Germanier's message extended to the stage design_ which consisted of plastic balloons. "They were rejected due to sewing errors_ but I will use them for my next show_" the designer explained to FashionUnited.
Ronald van der Kemp and Iris van Herpen: when couture makes nature_ recycled or living_ a creative material
Another key player in change is Dutch designer Ronald van der Kemp_ who only upcycles offcuts and recovered luxury fabrics. For his AW26 couture collection_ "Call of the Wild"_ he went even further by creating an ode to nature_ particularly the Amazon rainforest_ and explored biomimicry. "We don't realise how many solutions we have_" said expert Alain Renaudin at Paris Good Fashion.
This return to nature comes courtesy of another renowned Dutch designer: Iris van Herpen. She focused on the relationship between humans and the sea. With a multisensory atmosphere of sound_ light_ and scent—in collaboration with perfumer Francis Kurkdjian—she emphasised the fragility of this vital ecosystem. Van Herpen used textile fibres made from plant-based_ biodegradable materials_ produced in the laboratory through microbial fermentation. These innovative and luxurious fabrics are ecological alternatives to silk or cashmere.
The centrepiece of her show_ entitled "Sympoiesis"_ which means "co-creation between species"_ was a living dress made with 125 million natural bioluminescent algae. Cultivated in a nutrient gel_ they react to movement by emitting a cyan-blue light. A sign to the industry of the path that creative fashion with heart and a future can take.
