Haute couture_ a French exception under high protection
Paris - Haute couture returns to Paris on Monday for four days of shows. This highly codified and exclusively Parisian event brings together a handful of houses that meet specific criteria. Often used to describe luxury fashion_ the term “haute couture” is actually a legally protected designation_ not to be confused with ready-to-wear. Here are its foundations.
A legal exception
“Haute couture preceded ready-to-wear_” which offers industrial fashion produced in larger quantities_ recalls Pascal Morand. Morand is the executive president of the Fédération de la haute couture et de la mode (FHCM)_ the body that organises haute couture week and the Parisian Fashion Weeks.
Born in Paris at the end of the 19th century with figures like Charles Frederick Worth_ Jeanne Paquin and Paul Poiret_ it has been legally protected and regulated since 1945 by the French Ministry of Industry.
“After the war_ it was necessary to preserve the couture houses that were facing supply challenges_” explains Morand. The label has since been granted by ministerial decision_ following the advice of a control and classification commission created within the FHCM.
Strict criteria
To obtain this accreditation_ a couture house must meet specific criteria. The designs must be original_ made-to-measure and by hand. They must also be designed exclusively by the brand's permanent artistic director in workshops based in France.
The house must also have two distinct workshops: a _tailleur_ for structured and architectural garments_ such as jackets_ coats or trousers; and a _flou_ for soft and fluid pieces like dresses or blouses.
The control commission also requires a staff of at least twenty employees. It also mandates the presentation of two annual shows in Paris_ in January and July_ featuring a minimum of 25 looks mixing day and evening silhouettes.
However_ there is some tolerance for smaller houses. “If we only have 21 or 22 looks_ we are not going to police it_” points out Morand_ who also specifies that the rule of two shows per year has recently been relaxed.
A select circle
Only 13 houses hold the “haute couture” accreditation_ including luxury leaders Dior_ Chanel and Givenchy_ as well as Jean Paul Gaultier_ Maison Margiela_ Alexis Mabille and Schiaparelli.
The designation is granted for only one year and must be renewed each season. Some major French houses are not on the list_ such as Saint Laurent and Hermès. The former gave up haute couture in 2002_ upon the departure of Yves Saint Laurent_ while the latter plans to launch by 2027.
In addition to these houses_ there are seven _correspondent members_. They have an activity similar to haute couture but are not based in Paris. These include Italian brands Armani and Valentino_ Lebanese designer Elie Saab and the Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf. The FHCM also invites a few designers to show each season. Syrian designer Rami Al Ali_ French designer Julie de Libran and Swiss designer Kevin Germanier are among the 28 houses that will be showing until Thursday.
French identity
Few in number_ haute couture houses cater to an equally limited number of clients capable of acquiring pieces for red carpets_ galas and major events. “Haute couture may seem a bit outdated_” concedes Morand_ but it is “a laboratory” of savoir-faire and creativity. “It is a symbol of French identity_” he asserts.
In December_ it was added to France's intangible cultural heritage list_ the first step before a bid for Unesco heritage status. While haute couture remains a bastion of tradition_ it is not static. “What is interesting is the presence of both very large houses and young designers from abroad who bring a new energy and a new vision_” highlights Pierre Groppo_ fashion and lifestyle editor-in-chief of Vanity Fair France.
For him_ this openness attracts “a less traditional clientele_” proof that haute couture has become “de-aristocratised”.