Harrods buyer impressed by Chanel and Dior debuts at PFW SS26

Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2026_ which took place from September 29 to October 7_ saw debuts at Chanel_ Dior_ and Balenciaga_ and delivered a season of “extraordinary reset_” according to Simon Longland_ director of buying for fashion at luxury British department store Harrods.

Longland told FashionUnited over e-mail: “Paris offered a fashion week unlike any other. With so many debuts and sophomore collections_ we saw an extraordinary reset that brought out the best in some of the industry_s most talented designers.

“There was a renewed sense of creativity and purpose throughout the week_ which I believe will resonate particularly strongly in the months ahead. Nowhere was this more evident than in the accessories categories_ which felt invigorated and ready to capture the imagination of clients globally.”

When it came to favourite collections_ Longland was drawn to Tom Ford_ Alaïa_ Schiaparelli_ Balenciaga_ The Row_ Céline_ Givenchy_ Chanel and Dior_ as each collection “remained true to its heritage while offering a fresh perspective_ ensuring they will resonate both with industry insiders and our clients at Harrods”.

Matthieu Blazy at Chanel impressed Harrods buyer Simon Longland

Favourite debut went to Matthieu Blazy at Chanel_ who Longland said delivered an “outstanding” collection that managed to “strike the perfect balance between respect for the house_s storied codes and a clear forward-looking vision_” which set “a powerful tone” and an “exciting new chapter for Chanel”.

Blazy_s debut collection for Chanel was one of the most highly anticipated shows of the Paris Fashion Week season. The elegant and playful collection was unveiled at the Grand Palais_ illuminated by the solar system_ which Longland adds_ “felt almost like a big bang: the beginning of something new”.

“Blazy delivered a debut that was nothing short of a masterclass_” said Longland. “He showed complete respect for the house_ its codes and its ateliers_ while at the same time shifting the look and feel of Chanel into a new chapter. His modernisation was both intelligent and beautiful_ rooted in Coco_s own starting point – menswear codes and techniques. Nowhere was this more evident than in the crisp shirting_ recalling the shirts Coco herself wore_ which brought a lightness and purity not seen in recent collections.

“With this collection_ Blazy has achieved what felt almost impossible: creating a vision that will draw in a legion of new admirers_ while remaining deeply resonant with Chanel_s loyal clientele. A new beginning_ perfectly staged and brilliantly realised.”

On Jonathan Anderson_s debut at Dior during Paris Fashion Week

Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson received a standing ovation for his debut womenswear collection for Dior_ staged at the Jardin des Tuileries_ with a collection flooded with Dior heritage references_ from the bows to the hydrangeas_ as well as modern interpretations of the luxury fashion house_s iconic Bar jacket_ and red carpet-worthy gowns.

Dior said in the show notes that “change is inevitable_” and Longland adds that Anderson_s debut marked “a revolution rather than an evolution”.

“The show was a collection of contrasts - couture against everyday ease_ femininity with androgyny_ covered versus sheer_” explained Longland. “Striking in its modernity_ youthful energy and elegant ease_ the collection reimagined Dior_s most iconic codes through Anderson_s singular lens. His update of the Bar jacket and skirt will undoubtedly be on countless wish lists_ setting the tone for a bold new chapter at Dior.”

Pierpaolo Piccioli debuts his vision for Balenciaga

There was also a new chapter for Balenciaga this season with Pierpaolo Piccioli presenting his first collection for the storied fashion house_ following his long tenure as creative director of Valentino. With so many debuts on the schedule this season_ you_d think it was hard to stand out_ but Piccioli had royalty on his front row with Meghan_ Duchess of Sussex_ making a surprise appearance at PFW to support her friend.

On his debut_ Longland said Piccioli was “extraordinary_” showcasing a collection that “balanced reverence and renewal with rare precision_” with an exploration of the fashion house_s archive of Cristóbal Balenciaga_ while also “reimagining of signatures - from sculptural silhouettes to something as elemental as the T-shirt - revealed a couture-level sensibility”.

“The collection was both powerful and poetic: gowns of couture stature sat alongside impeccable leather and denim_ proving his ability to elevate every facet of the wardrobe_” added Longland. “This was not only a beautiful collection_ but a confident new direction for the house — one that feels entirely authentic to its heritage while opening an exciting new chapter. It was everything we had hoped for from a designer of his calibre.”

Best show format at PFW SS26

PFW has long become known for its elaborate catwalk settings_ and this season_ Longland said that Céline_ Saint Laurent and Chanel impressed him the most.

Longland added: “Format and setting played a key role in how collections were experienced this season. Céline_s show in the Parc de Saint-Cloud created a rare moment of calm and intimacy_ immersing us in nature in the midst of an intense week. “Saint Laurent_ staged against the illuminated Eiffel Tower at night_ delivered sheer theatricality_ while Chanel transformed the Grand Palais into a galaxy_ offering a spectacle as ambitious as the collection itself.”

PFW SS26 trends: Elegance_ feathers_ elevated wardrobe staples and tailoring

On the trends from PFW SS26_ Longland notes a “return to elegance_” with many designers referencing the refined silhouettes of the 1920s and 1950s_ with designers including Balenciaga_ The Row_ Givenchy and Chanel exploring this “through cut_ proportion and fabric_ creating collections that felt timeless yet relevant”.

There was also a sensuality running through the collections_ expressed through “lingerie-inspired details_” such as lace trims_ slips and bra tops_ which Longland adds were “reimagined with couture-level craftsmanship”.

Decorative volume was very much on display with “feathers_ fringing and shaggy textures adding movement and drama_” while at the same time collections were anchored “by wardrobe staples such as shirts and T-shirts_ cleverly juxtaposed with more opulent pieces to create a dialogue between high and low”.

Tailoring remained essential_ “with sharply cut black and white jackets serving as the backbone of many collections_” while statement sleeves_ sculptural skirts and striking colour stories “broke the dominance of monochrome and injected vibrancy into the season”.

Longland also notes that accessories were very much front and centre this season_ with silk scarves and bold belts_ providing “the finishing touches_ underscoring how detail completes the narrative of a look”.