Gucci champions street style with shoulder-slung bum bags_ bare midriffs and double G thongs

The intentions and sentiments are good. “This first show of mine for Gucci introduces a universe of people_ archetypes_ consumers and dress codes destined to inspire my creative language for the future. It is a beginning_ but already a mature one_ full of intention_” Demna wrote in a letter on show day.

However_ it is well known that numbers are what truly matter. In these complicated times_ to put it mildly_ sales figures are paramount. Gucci's recent history_ following incredible season-on-season growth_ has come to a halt. In 2025_ accounting for approximately 40 percent of sales_ Gucci remains the primary indicator of the Kering group's performance. In 2025_ the house reported a 19 percent decline on a like-for-like basis.

The logo and the brand's history_ while important and significant_ are not enough on their own. The creative direction and the label's language must learn to resonate once more with both its established and new clientele. This new audience is increasingly less brand-loyal and more distracted by countless other attractions. A strong_ clear identity is essential. Analyses and reports on the luxury market indicate that consumers are unforgiving. This is especially true for brands that believe their name_ history and logo are enough for an easy win.

Demna: “this collection is founded on a principle of pragmatism: to create desirable and authentic objects”

Certainly_ Kate Moss returning to the catwalk at 52 years old makes a statement. She closed Demna's highly anticipated debut show for Gucci during Milan Fashion Week. Moss wore a sparkling black dress with a deep_ plunging back.

The effect was amplified as the neckline revealed a double G thong in white gold_ studded with ten carats of diamonds. The sensuality of a seamless minidress in pure white hosiery fabric_ worn with a femme fatale attitude_ also contributed to the effect. This all contributes to the brand's embrace of diverse dressing styles. It is a politically correct approach and a sure way to appeal to a broad audience.

Jackets were styled with skirts_ legging-trousers and trousers. They “effortlessly transition from the office to the bar and everything in between_” as the press release noted.

“This collection_ and my vision for Gucci more broadly_ is founded on a principle of pragmatism: to create desirable and authentic objects that can accompany different people_ enrich their daily lives and make them feel good_” explained the brand's creative director. “Products that exist and establish themselves for what they are_ without the need for pseudo-intellectual justifications.” In a few months_ luxury giant Kering will assess the desirability of these items. It will then determine whether its flagship brand is back on a growth trajectory.

Meanwhile_ the brand's soft and fluid tailoring is infused with “a streetwear sensibility_” the note continued. On the catwalk_ impeccable_ fitted suits were followed by light-wash jeans. These were paired with extremely tight men's T-shirts_ highlighting muscular physiques. Sheath dresses clung to the body_ leaving little to the imagination. Logo bum bags were worn slung over the shoulder. One model even paused_ as if on the street_ to reply to a WhatsApp message. In essence_ the catwalk fully embraced street style. However_ it still featured the house's iconic bags_ tailored suits and just the right amount of colour.

The Gucci Bamboo 1947 was reinterpreted with a sleeker volume. It features a “bamboo” handle crafted from assembled segments of flexible leather. Archival minaudières were elongated to accommodate smartphones and other essentials. The Manhattan_ Demna's first trainer for Gucci_ combines an ultra-minimalist basketball silhouette with the slip-on convenience of a loafer.

The collection also featured leggings fused with trousers; jackets and tops integrated into a single_ ultra-fitted garment; and footwear that merged leather shoes and trainers into a unique silhouette. These shoes had the aerodynamic quality of a sports car_ with very long_ pronounced toes.