Gothic aesthetic: a dominant trend

Corsets_ radical cuts and long coats are progressively conquering the streets of capital cities. Inspired by the gothic aesthetic_ fashion is currently leaning towards a darker side. This shift reflects a certain disenchantment and expresses a rejection of established norms. Here's a breakdown.

Origins

This renewed enthusiasm for gothic fashion_ originating from the punk movement of the 1970s_ dates back to 2024. It gained momentum with the first season of the series "Wednesday"_ launched in 2022. Actress Jenna Ortega_ who plays Wednesday Addams_ has become a fashion icon_ sporting gothic-inspired outfits on red carpets.

Other cultural productions have also contributed to the return of gothic to the fashion scene. Examples include Robert Eggers' film "Nosferatu" (2024)_ starring Lily-Rose Depp; Tim Burton's remake of "Beetlejuice" (2024); and Tish Weinstock's book "How to Be a Goth" (Radar)_ released in October 2024. The recent Palais Galliera exhibition on designer Rick Owens_ an iconic figure of the underground and a major reference for gothic enthusiasts_ has also influenced the trend.

Gothic inspiration today encompasses several variations. The list includes "boho goth"_ which combines gothic style with the free and natural spirit of bohemianism; "Gothic Western"_ which blends the romanticism of Johnny Cash with a rebellious and dark spirit; and "goth glam"_ which_ as its name suggests_ combines glamour with the darkness of gothic. These options allow the trend to be adapted to multiple market targets.

Evolution

For autumn/winter 2026-27_ Première Vision experts speak of a new kind of gothic trend: "New Dynasties". The silhouette will be highly radical_ with the centrepiece being a dramatic_ sculptural_ ample coat_ often in black or deep red.

According to PV experts_ "New Dynasties resonates with the new fascinations for dystopian universes_ metaphors for a world in crisis." This theme is also found in the beauty world_ embodied by vibrant_ even bioluminescent pigments and sharp make-up.

The launch of the Boloria brand by Olivier Theyskens_ a figure of romantic gothic aesthetics_ is also expected to renew the genre. The first collection is scheduled for 2026.

Figures

According to Klarna_ the payments platform_ the Goth Girl trend is booming and is expected to continue. The company has observed strong performance in gothic jewellery: plus 85 percent for cross-shaped rings_ plus 69 percent for bat-shaped rings and plus 120 percent for cross earrings. Ready-to-wear is not to be outdone: plus 43 percent for corsets_ plus 86 percent for fishnet bodysuits_ plus 90 percent for velvet tops and plus 134 percent for coats in the same material. Finally_ black lipstick is a real hit_ with plus 738 percent in one year.