Glenn Martens gives H&M bestsellers a new twist
Around a year ago_ H&M announced its collaboration with Glenn Martens. Now_ the Swedish fashion retailer and the Belgian designer are offering a first glimpse into the upcoming collection.
“I firmly believe this is one of the most creative collaborations we have ever done_” said Ann-Sofie Johansson_ creative advisor at H&M. “Glenn is a true talent and a radical thinker. These extraordinary designs play with archetypes and the essence of what it means to get dressed every day.”
From the archive for individualism
Martens_ who delved deep into the Belgian brand's heritage for his debut as creative director of Maison Margiela earlier this year_ also uses the H&M archive as a starting point for the capsule_ H&M announced on Friday. This archive is reworked into womenswear_ menswear and accessories in Martens' signature style.
The collection is a tribute to individuality and personal style_ where everyday pieces are given an avant-garde touch. A do-it-yourself character and customisation options allow wearers to adjust the silhouettes and create their own look. This is achieved through features like hooks and eyes on dresses and jeans_ which are a must-have from the head designer of the denim brand Diesel.
“I see this collection as a large family of garments_ all with diverse uses and personalities. Like people_ they grow and change every day_” said Martens. “I have always been interested in the clothes we actually wear in our daily lives. The idea of archetypes and basics was the starting point for this very special and joyful project with H&M.”
Trompe-l'œil effects run throughout the entire collection. For instance_ a long-sleeved top features a printed knit top_ and a form-fitting dress displays a checked evening gown. The pieces printed on the dress and top are from Martens' archive. For accessories_ the effect is used on a silk scarf that depicts vintage necklaces. The designer also takes H&M's bestselling velvet skirt and adorns it with a kilt.
Martens_ highlands
In addition to the skirt_ Martens' interest in British humour and non-conformist street style is evident in many other pieces_ according to the press release. Alongside checks and tartan_ a print of a Scottish castle is also part of the collection_ featured on items such as hoodies.
His play on silhouettes is also expressed in this collection. Cargo trousers and over-the-knee boots_ familiar from the Parisian brand Y/Project that made Martens famous_ are given extra volume. Material innovations and techniques_ such as foil linings used in pieces like bomber jackets_ blazers and a trench coat_ offer additional ways to shape the garments. An oversized quilted jacket also features a wire to give the model new dimensions. All these elements are combined in various bags_ allowing their shape to be individually adjusted.
Alongside the must-have accessories – boots and bags – the range includes a belt without holes designed for draping on the body; sunglasses that look like two frames; and a checked scarf with a hood. For men_ there are also classic H&M basics like five-packs of underwear and socks with “Glenn Martens” branding. The collection also includes steel-toed workwear boots with an adjustable leather upper that can be removed with press studs.
The boxer shorts_ which he also wore at the press presentation_ have already found a permanent place in his own wardrobe. He briefly showed them by pulling out the waistband with his own name from under his trousers. The designer joked that they would make it easier for him to distinguish his underwear from his partner's.
H&M x Glenn Martens
This is the first time the designer has created under his own name_ rather than as creative director for Margiela_ Diesel or Y/Project. The latter brand plays a particularly special role in the collaboration with H&M_ Martens explained at the press conference before the launch.
Initially_ when Johansson and Martens began the collaboration around two years ago_ the focus was meant to be on him_ not the brand_ as he was still the creative director at Y/Project. After the end of the label_ the designer became open to incorporating his design language from Y/Project into the collaboration. Martens stated this was to celebrate it and make it more accessible compared to the designer brand's higher-priced pieces_ without losing its value.
His time at Y/Project was when he first appeared on the H&M team's radar_ long before Diesel and Margiela_ according to Johansson. Martens' own story_ however_ goes back much further.
Growing up in Bruges_ Belgium_ during his teenage years in the 1990s_ there wasn't much in the way of fashion until H&M opened its first store_ he said in the press talk. He loved the fashion retailer's clothes_ which were “poorly secured” at the time_ so he would occasionally pocket products to give to friends. Today_ this story comes full circle as he once again simply picks what he wants – this time from his own collection and in consultation with H&M – to gift his loved ones for Christmas.
Consumers can purchase the collaboration online and in H&M stores worldwide from October 30.
