From football to fishing: Trends of Copenhagen Fashion Week

Copenhagen Fashion Week this season presented itself as a particularly clear reflection of society_ showcasing two sides. One_ a world full of colourful and alternative looks. The other_ a more conservative style with classic silhouettes and high-necked pieces.

The trends from the Danish capital stood out_ particularly from the first perspective. Some playful details repeatedly lightened up the more conservative looks_ perhaps as a sign of hope in difficult times.

Discover which trends particularly shaped Copenhagen_ and the role the rat played in it all.

Negligés

On the first day of fashion week_ it already became clear that negligés with ruffle details in various designs – from long dresses to recycled pieces – were highly popular for SS26.

Depending on the collection_ the styling was either simple or sophisticated. A long dress with toe separators at OpéraSport could be seen_ as well as more urban looks from Baum und Pferdgarten_ which presented the negligé together with olive-green cargo trousers and black Y2K-style boots. Meanwhile_ Bonnetje showcased the reconstructed top_ with the former slip dress styled as a detail over a knee-length black skirt.

Transparent fabrics

It wasn_t just the silky nightdresses that provided a touch of sensuality in Copenhagen. The use of transparent fabrics also conveyed a magical lightness. The respective materials were used for both partial sections and entire pieces. The spectrum ranged from knee-length dresses and jackets to jumpsuits.

The transparent materials – especially through the many different applications – created a variety of styles that could be sensual and elegant_ but also casual and sporty.

Fishnet

Several net-like tops_ dresses and decorative throws_ reminiscent of full-body jewellery_ complemented the rather revealing trend_ even if they were sometimes only used as an additional layer. Overall_ the looks around the coarse-meshed pieces seemed to show a lot of skin.

The decorative aspect seemed to be at the forefront of most pieces of this kind_ whether through small details adorning a coarse-meshed dress or the use of the product as an accessory. The exception was a sleeveless top by Rolf Ekroth_ where the net was only used as an insert.

Horse girl

The following looks_ reminiscent of show jumper uniforms_ were significantly more structured. The sharply tailored blazers are reminiscent of the athletes_ competition jackets_ which_ fittingly_ were rounded off with leggings and dark boots at brands like MKDT Studio and The Garment. Gestuz_ meanwhile_ shortened the blazer and combined it with a short skirt – a look less reminiscent of equestrian sports_ but one that came closer to a uniform through accessories such as white gloves.

Football shoulders

Statement tops with a sporty reference could also be seen at PLN_ Han Kjobenhavn and Rave Review. However_ these brands focused particularly on the shoulders_ which looked as if the designers had been inspired by American football. They used the associated shoulder pads – the protective gear worn under the jersey – to play with the silhouette.

Pattern mix

Copenhagen is known for its Scandinavian minimalism as well as its vintage street style aesthetic_ which often features patterns from past decades. Some of the brands pursued the second approach this season_ sending looks with many different patterns down the runway_ some of which also clashed within a single look.

Layering played a particularly important role through contrasting prints like floral embroidery with stripes; polka dots with hearts and stripes; and check patterns. The various garments also brought together different colours_ combining_ for example_ pink with brown – a colour palette that doesn_t necessarily come to mind immediately_ but which created a certain harmony among the disharmony through the jumble of patterns.

Stiff scarf

The scarf_ which has been gaining popularity in recent seasons_ including in menswear_ was also present in Copenhagen. What was striking_ however_ was that the accessory tied around the neck at several brands_ such as MKDT Studio_ Rave Review and Rolf Ekroth_ appeared somewhat stiff_ sometimes looking as if it were blowing in the wind.

Ratty It-bag

The absolute It-piece of the season was delivered by Anne Sofie. The 'Radbag'_ presented in various colours such as a lilac-chrome or gold_ is based on the sculpture by artist Esben Weile Kjær and depicts an oversized rat. Various designers have already proven that replicas of animals are popular bags_ above all Jonathan Anderson_ who has already turned creatures such as pigeons and frogs into absolute It-pieces for his brand JW Anderson.

Similar to the pigeon_ the rat is popularly considered a dirty_ disease-carrying pest_ yet they are said to be particularly intelligent animals. The rat_ as the cliché “pet” of punks_ is also attributed with rebellion. So is the new It-bag only a statement or is it also a response to the growing pressure from the conservative movement worldwide?