From fairy dust to sculptural fashion: AW26 trends from Tokyo

Tokyo Fashion Week marks the end of the international autumn/winter 2026 womenswear runway season. In the Japanese capital_ designers looked to the past_ drawing inspiration from bygone eras and mythical creatures. They also showcased their skill for craftsmanship and the creation of fashion sculptures.

Fashion history

This season_ several designers_ not just in Tokyo_ seem to have delved into fashion's history books for inspiration from days gone by. Various silhouettes were presented that were reminiscent of creations from the 18th and 19th centuries. Most looks were high-necked_ revealing almost no skin. They focused on layering and muted colours_ including black_ various shades of white and navy blue. They were often finished with a playful detail_ such as a special headpiece. Ruffle details_ especially on the collar_ added the finishing touch to some of the combinations.

Designer Moe Ishida of the Tokyo-based label Houga was inspired by New York's experimental Off-Off-Broadway theatre productions for her collection “Our Playground”_ and apparently also by its costume archive. She showed_ among other things_ a blue pinafore dress with a tiered_ wide-flared skirt_ styled over a simple white blouse.

The French designer Agnès Troublé_ founder of the brand Agnès B._ showed as part of the “by R” project by Fashion Week sponsor Rakuten. She presented 35 pieces that are available exclusively via the Japanese conglomerate's fashion platform. A particular standout was a tailored frock coat in beige_ combined with a tricorn hat and leather shoes with a large strap. Connoisseurs of the brand will notice that this is not the first time the designer has sent this look down the runway. It was already part of the SS26 collection_ which was shown during Paris Fashion Week.

The Japanese label Mukcyen by designer Yuka Kimura also integrated various historical references into its collection_ which were repeatedly juxtaposed with contemporary fabrics and cuts. A knee-length coat is particularly noteworthy. Its silhouette is cinched by a corset and flared by a transparent petticoat. Underneath_ a long_ white ruffled blouse was showcased_ which stood out particularly for its voluminous cuffs and high_ puffed collar.

Fairytale

The enchanting looks from the brands Pays des Fées and Marika Suzuki seem to be inspired less by historical pieces and more by the stories of the Brothers Grimm.

The Japanese label Pays des Fées (French for 'fairyland') had fairies gliding down the runway for its 20th anniversary. The looks were partly inspired by its own archive from the last two decades. According to the show notes_ there were also influences from the animistic and pantheistic worldview found in religious paintings from the 6th to the 11th century. The entire collection was thus imbued with an interplay of mythical creatures in harmony with flora and fauna. Butterfly wings were lined up next to horned hats_ while almost the entire collection was wrapped in glitter and tulle. Colours such as a delicate pink_ various shades of green and sky blue dominated the looks.

Meanwhile_ Marika Suzuki delved into the sunken world of mermaids. The fashion research specialist behind the eponymous Japanese label uses discarded plastic bottles as well as damaged kimonos and textiles as the basis for her collection. Plastic appears in the collection on various headpieces and as details in voluminous dresses. With their ruffled shapes and colours like green and red_ they are reminiscent of coral and algae enveloping the wearers. Transparent fabrics_ tulle and shimmering materials with a colour scheme of red_ blue and turquoise resembling the rainbow fish deepen the feeling of being somewhere in the vastness of the ocean.

Creepy cute

For the first time_ the Taiwan Textile Federation also presented the Taiwan Select project during fashion week_ in which the three labels PCES Studio_ Yentity and Chia participated. The designer trio behind PCES wanted to put the wearer at the centre of their collection “There is no Party without you” and make them the “star”. Under this motto_ they brought the fairytale vibe with tulle and ruffles into the present for a generation that moves mainly on the internet. These components were combined with streetwear pieces such as hoodies decorated with stars.

Designer Yueqi Qi_ who founded her eponymous label in 2019 after graduating from the renowned London fashion school Central Saint Martins (CSM) and integrates embroidery and glass beads into her vividly printed fabrics_ seemed to adopt a similar aesthetic. However_ she was guided more by nostalgia_ as she drew inspiration for FW26 from a former underground shopping arcade in Niigata_ Japan. Lingerie-inspired details met looks somewhere between school uniforms and skiwear_ which showed a lot of skin apart from the thick winter jackets with fur collars. Pixel motifs such as kittens and flowers were seen alongside a drawing pad print and bunny embroidery. The interplay of these different elements revived the early 2000s without following the key pieces of the Y2K trend of past seasons.

Yusho Kobayashi_ who also graduated from CSM_ transformed his entire runway into a sea of artificial flowers in pink and purple. Very young_ almost childlike models walked through it to mystical_ electronic pop music. They presented a playful collection based on patchwork_ layering and crochet elements. The focus was on voluminous dresses decorated with large bows_ whose material looked like crumpled paper and was adorned with childlike paintings. The chaotic-looking mix harmonised with the Japanese "kawaii" aesthetic – pastel colours; soft textures; simple graphics and cuteness – which also includes the somewhat darker subgenre Gurokawa_ or "creepy cute". Dark and cute at the same time also seem to be the key adjectives for the collection.

Sculptures

The following brands seemed to have taken a completely different path_ paying special attention to the silhouette itself.

The Japan-based brand Enföld_ known for its sculptural designs_ presented a collection characterised by shapes and layering this season with its “Living Sculpture” collection. Pieces characterised by soft edges and curves were juxtaposed with asymmetrical cuts and cropped tops.

Ryunosuke Okazaki_ who was a finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2022_ also builds on sculptural work with his garments made of wire and stretch fabric. These elements sometimes wind around the body like the visualisation of movement in cartoons and look almost like futuristic armour from a video game. Although the Japanese designer has previously focused less on ready-to-wear pieces_ he tried to integrate individual items such as polo shirts into the collection. However_ even these did not come without a wire in the shoulder sections.

A similar sculptural form was also recognisable in the final look at Japanese trainer specialist Grounds_ which showed its FW26 collection in Paris a few weeks earlier. A voluminous_ long dress was on display_ which was particularly striking due to its strongly flared shoulders_ almost resembling angel wings.

Further trends at a glance

Apart from the conceptual similarities_ there also seemed to be individual design elements in Tokyo this season that were found in the collections of several designers_ including diamond quilting and photo prints.

Diamond quilting

Diamond quilting is particularly popular in outerwear for equestrian sports_ but it also repeatedly finds favour in experimental pieces. In Tokyo_ it was mainly used for white_ knee-length coats reminiscent of bedspreads. Pays des Fées also integrated the fabric into a short_ almost cape-like jacket with leg-of-mutton sleeves.

Photo prints

The use of photos showing everyday objects or situations was also a popular design element. The variations range from a simple large print that covers the entire top to a tiled collage with different motifs and an all-over print.