French eyewear maker in spotlight after presidential showing

French eyewear maker in spotlight after presidential showing

French eyewear maker in spotlight after presidential showing

French eyewear maker in spotlight after presidential showing

The aviator sunglasses that captured the world's attention when French President Emmanuel Macron wore a pair on stage in Davos in a faceoff with US counterpart Donald Trump have become an unexpected success for the Italian owner of the France-based manufacturer that has watched sales soar.

Despite the hype_ eyewear maker Henry Jullien has struggled in a declining French industry that was established in the eastern Jura region in the late 1700s_ facing competition from far cheaper Asian manufacturers.

Henry Jullien's "Top Gun"-style shades with blue lenses and a silver frame_ priced at 659 euros ($784)_ are now featured on the French presidency's online store.

Since last week's World Economic Forum in Switzerland_ "we've been getting calls from all over the world_ it's given us incredible publicity_" said Stefano Fulchir_ CEO of the Italian company iVision Tech which owns Henry Jullien.

More than 500 sunglasses have already been sold online -- a significant jump for the high-end brand that typically produces just a thousand pairs per year_ including 200 of the aviator Pacific S01 model_ in Jura.

The brand's website crashed with the surge in traffic so a temporary webpage dedicated solely to the presidential model was launched_ while iVision Tech's stock soared 70 percent in a matter of days_ Fulchir said.

Macron had ordered the sunglasses in 2024 "to give a gift to a minister during the G20" along with the pair for himself_ Fulchir said.

Made with a gold wire_ the aviators are crafted in an intricate 279-step process over four months.

"We pampered both pairs_ of course_" said Herve Basset_ 60_ who has spent more than half his life at Henry Jullien.

The eyewear makers all received thank-you letters from the president_ recalled Karine Pelissard_ who has spent 30 years in the trade.

Shrinking industry

The eyewear maker had about 180 employees 15 years ago but was down to just 15 when iVision Tech bought it in 2023_ according to the mayor where the manufacturing facility is located.

Further cuts were made. Ten employees remain in Jura_ iVision Tech said_ and its site in the Italian town of Martignacco has had to take on the surge in orders.

To assure authenticity_ Fulchir said the glasses are stamped with either "Made in France" or "Made in Italy" depending on which site they come from -- the "most important" labels in the eyewear world_ signifying quality.

Yet Julien Forestier_ head of the eyewear makers' union in Jura_ said the buzz will "bring nothing" to the local industry.

"There are only a few companies left fighting for French manufacturing_" and even opticians no longer really believe in the Made in France label anymore_ he lamented.

While the sector still produces 2 million frames a year_ there are only around 50 companies and about 800 employees in Jura_ compared with 10_000 in the 1950s.(AFP)