Flights of fancy at Bottega Veneta_ atmospheric mood at Armani in Milan

Grey and brutalist_ showy and shimmering -- the stark contrasts of the Italian fashion capital of Milan fuelled the creative mind of Bottega Veneta's Louise Trotter in her second collection for the brand.

The city's harsh aspects found expression in the armour-like coats that Trotter sent down the runway Saturday night at Milan Fashion Week_ while its theatrical side burst forth from delightfully tactile creations made from recycled fibreglass that swayed and shimmered as models made their way down the runway.

Milan's most famous brand_ Giorgio Armani_ also channelled a Milanese mood on Sunday_ but more contemplative in a collection that drew on Japanese influences and hues of blue-grey and claret.

Trotter told journalists after her show that the Fall/Winter collection for the brand known for its "intreccio" technique of woven leather was inspired by "what Milanese style meant to me and Bottega Veneta from my viewpoint".

The brutalism of the city_ whether in its architecture or its notoriously grey weather_ juxtaposes with a more hidden "sensuality and seduction"_ she said.

That translated to the coats_ long jackets and coat dresses with bold_ exaggerated shoulders -- "like armour"_ Trotter said -- some of them with an accompanying brown leather belt that dangled_ sword-like_ from the waist.

As is fitting for Bottega Veneta_ leather infused the collection for both men and women_ here on shoulder patches_ there on epaulets or collars.

One model was virtually swaddled in supple olive leather_ her oversized bomber jacket with high collar paired with an asymmetrical matching leather skirt_ with nubby leather flip-flops at her feet.

But the collection took a dramatic turn with the arrival of a series of over-the-top showstopping coats made from recycled fibreglass_ a synthetic material introduced at Trotter's debut last September.

The costume-like poofs moved and shimmered under the lights of the former theatre where the runway show was held_ just steps from the La Scala opera_ many of them paired with matching hats_ in colours of electric blue_ black and bubble-gum pink.

A sweater worn by a male model recalled a Harlequin theme with splotches of red and black against the white background of the shimmering_ fur-like material.

"I wanted to express that joy_ that theatric_" said Trotter_ saying the looks expressed the more showy side of Milan's residents_ who "really dress up."

"I think it's quite unusual or rare today to find that. And I think it's dressing up for oneself and also for one's community. I think it's a sign of pride and respect."

Trotter's goal as a designer_ she said_ was to "bring joy and confidence to people" through clothing.

Backstage_ rapper Lauryn Hill had on one of Trotter's glittering sweaters of fibreglass_ in electric orange_ accessorised with an oversized "intreccio" purse with fringe.

An entourage of assistants directed hand fans in Hill's direction to keep her cool_ sending the fibres of the outrageous garment aflutter.

"It's got a life of its own_" said one of them_ with a smile.

Colour of clouds

After the showmanship at Bottega Veneta_ a change of mood pervaded the air at Giorgio Armani_ where women's creative director Silvana Armani -- niece of founder Giorgio who died last year -- presented a subtle_ atmospheric pret-a-porter collection in tones of grey.

Accompanied by the sound of blowing wind on the music soundtrack_ loose flowing pants in ivory were paired with unconstructed grey jackets the colour of clouds_ while a relaxed bomber jacket in soft wool found its low-key decoration in subtle piping on its sides.

The collection's gentle hues mutated from grey-blue to grey-green in barely perceptible shifts. Until the appearance of claret on flowing satin pants_ that is -- a colour also used for velvet evening looks_ whether long gowns or loungewear-inspired suits that drew influences from both Venetian and Japanese culture.

But Armani found her own moments of theatricality_ mixing feathers in shades of Prussian blue and claret on a cape or a faux-fur long coat mixing black_ claret_ and grey with pops of royal blue.