Fashion sector emissions surge amid overproduction and polyester dependency
The apparel industry_ already under scrutiny for its environmental footprint_ recorded a 7.5 percent increase in greenhouse gas emissions in 2023_ according to the Apparel Impact Institute_s (Aii) annual report Taking Stock of Progress Against the Roadmap to Net Zero 2025. The findings underscore a troubling reversal: it is the first year-on-year rise since Aii began tracking climate progress in 2019.
Total emissions from the sector reached 944 million tonnes_ representing nearly 2 percent of global emissions. This sharp uptick pushes the industry further from its ambitious target of halving its carbon output by 2030_ a goal that now feels increasingly aspirational. At the heart of the issue lies the relentless churn of ultra-fast fashion and a deepening dependence on virgin polyester_ which now accounts for 57 percent of global fiber production. Recycled fibers_ meanwhile_ remain underutilized_ failing to make a significant dent in fossil fuel reliance.
Yet_ amid the overall increase_ there are pockets of progress. A growing number of brands are cutting their Scope 1 and 2 emissions by transitioning to renewable energy_ phasing out coal_ and investing in efficiency upgrades. Fast Retailing (parent company of Uniqlo)_ Puma_ Inditex_ and H&M_ which reported a 23 percent reduction in Scope 3 emissions between 2019 and 2024_ are among those leading initiatives to decarbonize their value chains. On the supplier side_ investments are scaling: Artistic Milliners has committed 100 million dollars to renewable energy_ Shenzhou Group has cut its Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 24 percent since 2022_ and Elevate Textiles reports a 35 percent drop since 2019.
Pockets of progress
“While it_s encouraging to see progress across the value chain_ with meaningful case studies from both brands and suppliers_ this data is a stark reminder of how far we still must go as an industry_” said Lewis Perkins_ President of Aii. “The good news is we don_t have to start from scratch. Resources_ initiatives_ funding_ and partnerships are available to support every part of the fashion ecosystem.”
The report_ landing at the mid-point of what many have dubbed the decisive decade for climate action_ stresses the urgency of scaling sustainable materials_ committing to 100% renewable energy_ and eliminating coal from manufacturing. For the fashion industry_ which thrives on speed_ novelty_ and scale_ these measures may require a fundamental rethink of production models that are currently designed for excess.