Demna to bow out at Balenciaga in Paris Haute Couture Week
Provocative Georgian showman Demna is to take a final bow after 10 years at Balenciaga during Paris Haute Couture Week_ which begins Monday and will also feature a debut for Maison Margiela's new chief creative.
Demna_ known for his daring work as well as controversies during his decade-long stint at Kering-owned Balenciaga_ will unveil his final collection on Wednesday in what is expected to be one of the highlights of the week.
Not to be confused with Paris Fashion Week_ Haute Couture Week takes place exclusively in Paris - in January for spring-summer collections and July for autumn-winter.
It is a uniquely French event dedicated to handcrafted_ one-of-a-kind creations made to wear at red carpets_ galas_ and other high-profile events.
The 44-year-old Demna_ acclaimed by millennials and Gen-Z stars from Kim Kardashian to British pop sensation Charli XCX_ has been tasked with reviving the flagging fortunes of Gucci by Kering CEO Francois-Henri Pinault.
After multiplying sales at Balenciaga_ where he made headlines with a 2_000 dollar "Ikea" bag and a 1_800 dollar so-called "trash pouch"_ he is currently being honoured with an exhibition titled "Balenciaga by Demna" at Kering's Paris headquarters.
He will be succeeded by Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli_ who is set to present his first collection in October during Paris Women's Fashion Week.
As usual_ Schiaparelli will open Couture Week_ followed later in the day by shows from Iris Van Herpen -- returning after a year-long break -- as well as Georges Hobeika_ Imane Ayissi_ Rahul Mishra_ Julie de Libran_ and Giambattista Valli. After Demna's farewell on Wednesday_ Belgian designer Glenn Martens will find himself in the spotlight as he unveils a first collection for Maison Margiela following his appointment in January to succeed British designer John Galliano.
American designer Michael Rider_ who succeeded Hedi Slimane as chief designer at Celine_ unveiled his first collection for the luxury French brand on Sunday_ outside the official calendar.
Absences
On Tuesday_ Chanel will present the final collection created by its in-house design studio_ the fifth since Virginie Viard's sudden departure in June 2024.
Her successor_ the discreet and highly respected Franco-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy_ was appointed in December and will showcase his first collection for Chanel in October.
Up to Thursday_ 27 houses will unveil their creations_ including Elie Saab_ Armani Prive_ Aelis_ Viktor&Rolf_ Adeline Andre_ and Dubai-based Rami Al Ali who is set to become the first Syrian to join the official calendar. Following a spate of major changes at fashion houses_ some absences will stand out_ particularly Dior's.
After a highly anticipated debut during the men's Fashion Week on June 27_ newly appointed artistic director Jonathan Anderson is holding back his first haute couture collection for January 2026.
Named in early June to lead Dior's women's and couture lines as well_ the 40-year-old Northern Irishman has become the first person since founder Christian Dior himself to oversee all three branches of the house. Jean Paul Gaultier is also missing.
Dutch designer Duran Lantink_ appointed as the brand's permanent artistic director in April_ will make his debut during Women's Fashion Week in October.
Since stepping back in 2020_ Jean Paul Gaultier has handed over the reins of his couture collections to a series of guest designers_ including Olivier Rousteing_ Ludovic de Saint Sernin_ Haider Ackermann_ and Simone Rocha.
The week will wrap up with a show by Swiss designer Kevin Germanier.(AFP)