Chanel by Matthieu Blazy: elegance with a playful twist
This Monday evening at the Grand Palais_ the house of Chanel started a new chapter in its history_ presenting the first collection conceived under the creative direction of Matthieu Blazy. The result is a Chanel woman firmly grounded in the present_ embodying a rediscovered modernity.
Chanel silhouettes by Matthieu Blazy
Against a nocturnal backdrop illuminated by the planets of our solar system_ the first Chanel silhouette by Matthieu Blazy stood out for its apparent simplicity. It featured a grey ensemble pairing suit trousers with a short jacket with rolled-up sleeves. The new director opted for a gentle transition_ introducing the collection with a classic office wear look_ complete with his signature whimsical touch: a pair of earrings with shaggy flower petals.
This was followed by several split skirts in neutral tones and consistently fluid ensembles. Extravagance was found in the details_ such as thick choker necklaces and vibrantly hued earrings_ becoming increasingly prominent as the collection progressed. A red feathered hairstyle lent a rebellious air to a long_ shimmering nude dress_ while white feathers on the hem of a dark coat softened its severity.
The opening classical music gave way to an electro beat_ matching the collection's modern twist. While retaining Chanel's signature classicism_ the long-sleeved top and skirt ensembles were updated with fluid knits_ floral friezes_ and moving volume. The waistline gradually dropped_ recalling the silhouettes of the 1920s_ a key decade for the house.
Several cleverly contemporary ensembles were noted_ combining a smart skirt with an oversized_ minimalist blouse. Modernity was also evident in the use of unexpected materials_ a hallmark of Matthieu Blazy's style developed during his time at Bottega Veneta_ his previous employer.
This spring/summer collection also featured several elements similar to those the artistic director had introduced in the womenswear collections for the Italian label. These included close-fitting dresses with flared hems and low-waisted dresses with fringed hems.
Tweed suit gains desirability
In the hands of Matthieu Blazy_ Chanel's iconic tweed suit sheds its classic severity for a newfound lightness. The fabric is open-worked and enlivened by vibrant hues_ embossed effects_ and energetic geometric patterns. With its use of transparency and a modernised cut featuring a wide_ low-slung belt_ this Chanel wardrobe staple demonstrates Matthieu Blazy's effort to make it desirable once more to a younger clientele.
Strong symbol of female emancipation
The spring/summer 2026 collection was not a complete surprise. Before its presentation_ the brand piqued public curiosity by revealing an initial teaser. Last weekend_ Chanel published a black and white portrait on its Instagram account showing the back_ shoulders_ and delicate nape of a brunette woman. Her bob cut inevitably evoked the figure of Gabrielle Chanel herself_ who was often depicted with a similar bobbed hairstyle. This signalled a return to the brand's origins and paid homage to its founder.
By choosing to evoke the iconic bobbed hairstyle_ Matthieu Blazy also revived a powerful symbol of female emancipation from the 1920s_ a decade when cutting one's hair short was an act of rebellion. It is worth remembering that the quote_ “a woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life_” is attributed to Gabrielle Chanel. This sentiment is particularly fitting for the occasion.
Finally_ a discreet fan of feathers_ which appeared to be a pair of earrings merging with the hair_ added a playful touch to the image. This is also a typical feature of David Bailey_ the English fashion photographer behind the campaign who helped revolutionise the image of women in the 1960s. The discreet elegance_ minimalism_ and non-conformism that often characterise Bailey's work clearly echo the style of Matthieu Blazy.
A successful gamble?
Expectations for Matthieu Blazy are high. Appointed in December 2024_ the new creative director of fashion at Chanel must restore the grandeur of the illustrious French couture house and turn the page on the Karl Lagerfeld era_ who led the label from 1983 to 2019. The challenge is even greater given the difficult economic climate for the luxury sector_ which has not spared the Chanel group. The company reported a net profit of 3.4 billion dollars_ down 28.2 percent in 2024 compared to 2023.
In appointing Matthieu Blazy_ Chanel has chosen an artistic director with a solid track record whose work at Bottega Veneta helped the label increase its revenue. The collection he has just designed for the French house appears to be a direct continuation of his work for Bottega Veneta. It features the same creativity and apparent simplicity with a playful twist_ but above all_ an effortlessly wearable chic. This is precisely what is needed to propel Chanel into a new era.