Call for transparency_ archival references and co-ed formulas at Milan Fashion Week

Milan Men_s Fashion Week_ showcasing autumn/winter 2026–27 collections_ concluded today with digital presentations as the city shifts focus to women_s fashion week_ scheduled for February 24–March 2. The season delivered solid_ well-executed collections_ though few breakthroughs. Designers largely turned to brand archives_ refining established codes rather than introducing radical change.

Buyer attendance was steady but subdued_ reflecting ongoing market caution. At Pitti Uomo_ Italian buyers fell by 800 compared with January 2025_ dropping to 7_500_ while international attendance remained stable at around 5_000. The figures underscore continued pressure from the global consumer slowdown.

The coexistence of co-ed shows and men_s-only presentations highlighted a fashion system still searching for balance. Meanwhile_ recent labour exploitation cases involving Italian luxury brands have pushed companies to reassess messaging and communication strategies.

Italian fashion gains international recognition

International recognition provided a counterpoint. Renzo Rosso_ founder of the OTB Group_ was awarded France_s Légion d'honneur by French ambassador to Italy Martin Briens.

“It is a great honour to receive the Légion d'honneur… This recognition is not only a milestone but also an incentive to further strengthen our presence in France… and to continue with determination on our path to sustainability_” Rosso said.

In the UK_ Brunello Cucinelli received the Outstanding Achievement Award at the British Fashion Awards 2025 for his “outstanding contribution to the fashion world” and his role in redefining luxury through responsible business practices.

Milan_s visibility has also increased ahead of the Milan Cortina 2026 Olympic and Paralympic Games_ beginning in February.

Market snapshot

The men_s fashion week_ held January 16–20_ featured 84 events_ including 19 runway shows_ seven digital shows_ and 39 presentations.

According to Camera della Moda_ Italy_s core fashion sectors—textiles_ apparel_ leather goods_ and footwear—returned to growth in Q3 2025 after eight consecutive quarters of decline. However_ related sectors such as jewellery_ eyewear_ and beauty remained negative. Overall industry turnover fell 3 percent in the first nine months of 2025 versus the same period in 2024.

Exports declined 4.4 percent in the first eight months of 2025_ with non-EU markets down 9 percent. Imports rose_ led by China (+11.8 percent). The trade balance remained positive at 26.7 billion euros_ though down 4.3 billion euros year on year.

Confindustria Moda estimates Italian menswear turnover will fall 2.1 percent in 2025 to 11.2 billion euros (13.14 billion dollars). “The year 2025 began in a context still marked by high uncertainty… with no concrete signs of recovery_” the association said_ citing geopolitical tensions and protectionist measures.

Collections: heritage over disruption

At Giorgio Armani_ Leo Dell_Orco_s AW26–27 debut explored fluid silhouettes_ soft volumes_ and velvety textures. Titled Cangiante_ the collection focused on subtle colour shifts—olive_ amethyst_ and lapis—within a restrained palette. “The metaphor is well suited to the Giorgio Armani style of today_” the brand said_ emphasising continuity with renewed nuance.

Brunello Cucinelli balanced elegance and utility_ reworking classic tailoring with lighter construction and functional details. Outerwear stood out for its technical fabrics and refined finishes.

Heritage was central at Zegna_ where artistic director Alessandro Sartori drew on garments from the Zegna family wardrobe. “Clothes are the pages of a diary we write throughout our lives_” Sartori said_ framing the collection as a generational handover. Long silhouettes_ relaxed proportions_ and playful reinterpretations of double-breasted tailoring defined the offering.

A few weeks ahead of the Milan Cortina 2026 Olympic and Paralympic Games_ EA7 Emporio Armani—partner of the Milano Cortina 2026 Foundation and official outfitter of the Italian team—hosted an event at its Milan store_ unveiling a new video campaign dedicated to Italy_s Olympic and Paralympic athletes.

Practicality was also central to Brunello Cucinelli_s collection_ where the brand_s signature codes of masculine elegance were reinterpreted through a balance of function and refinement. Lightly constructed jackets with softened lines embodied measured elegance_ while ties acted as deliberate accents against garment-dyed trousers with cargo or utility pockets.

Prada continued its dialogue between past and future. Slim_ elongated coats_ layered capes_ and precise tailoring referenced tradition while questioning convention. “There is a belonging to the past that interests us_ even as we search for novelty_” said Miuccia Prada.

Kiton reinforced its positioning around transparency and craftsmanship_ centring the collection on exclusive fabrics developed at its Biella mill and a disciplined approach to volume and detail.

Prada_ too_ confronted the future through the lens of tradition. Slim_ elongated coats_ flattened hats_ extended cuffs_ and layered capes articulated a precise silhouette grounded in history.

“We know so little that we cannot predict the future_ so in clothes we need clarity_ precision. There is a belonging to the past that interests us_ even as we search for novelty_” explained Miuccia Prada.

Kiton_s AW26–27 collection reaffirmed the values of transparency and craftsmanship underpinning Made in Italy_ focusing on exclusive fabrics developed in its Biella wool mill and on refined proportions and detail.

Retail_ anniversaries and alpine themes

Beyond the runway_ Milan saw store openings and brand milestones. Retori debuted its first global flagship on Via della Spiga_ conceived as a cultural salon. “We created it to offer an experience of wonder_” said founder Salma Rachid.

Blauer marked 25 years of its brand licence_ tracing its evolution from US technical uniforms to global fashion label. “I wanted to make a technical clothing brand appealing to fashion customers_” said Enzo Fusco_ president and CEO of Fgf Industry.

Lessico Familiare closed on a contrasting note_ presenting its New Age collection—an introspective summary of the brand_s evolving aesthetic—at the new Istituto Marangoni headquarters.

Winter sports provided a unifying theme. K-Way presented its technical ski collection ahead of the Olympics_ while Dsquared2 staged a hockey-inspired show referencing the Canadian roots of founders Dean and Dan Caten.