California threads together new textile law
In a landmark move for fashion_s climate reckoning_ California is preparing to implement the United States_ first Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) law focused on textiles. The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 (SB 707)_ signed into law by Governor Gavin Newsom late last year_ places the onus on apparel and textile producers to fund and manage systems for the collection_ reuse_ and recycling of their products sold in the state.
On Thursday_ July 17_ the California Department of Resources Recycling and Recovery (CalRecycle) will host an inaugural workshop in Sacramento to initiate the regulatory framework behind SB 707. Held at the California Environmental Protection Agency Headquarters the meeting is expected to draw policymakers_ recyclers_ and fashion industry stakeholders. Topics on the agenda include collection infrastructure_ producer obligations_ and statewide reuse targets.
For an industry historically allergic to regulation_ SB 707 signals a tectonic shift. The law mandates that companies selling garments and certain textiles in California must either form or join a stewardship organization_ essentially underwriting their own waste. It_s a model familiar to packaging and battery producers_ but novel for the fashion sector—one of the world_s most polluting industries.
The Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association (SMART)_ which represents textile recyclers and resellers globally_ will be among those offering early input. Jessica Franken_ SMART_s Director of Government Affairs_ will deliver remarks on behalf of the industry_ highlighting the logistical realities of textile recovery and calling for pragmatic implementation that reflects market conditions.
“SMART members are on the front lines of textile reuse and recycling_” Franken notes. “We_re encouraged by California_s commitment to engaging stakeholders early_ and we look forward to contributing our operational expertise to help shape a program that works in practice—not just on paper.”
California_s EPR approach aligns with broader global momentum toward circularity. The EU is finalising its own textile waste legislation_ while France has operated a national EPR program for clothing since 2007. For American fashion brands_ long shielded from such mandates_ the Golden State may now become a regulatory proving ground.
What remains to be seen is whether the industry_ accustomed to runway flash and seasonal churn. can adapt to a model that values durability and end-of-life responsibility as much as trend cycles. For critics of fashion_s environmental cost_ July 17 may mark the beginning of a long overdue accountability moment.