Between upheaval and familiarity: 10 Key trends for SS26

The word “historic” was so prevalent this season that it almost felt like an unofficial headline hovering over the spring/summer 2026 collections. This was certainly justified_ as a major reshuffle took place in the highest echelons of the fashion world. A total of 14 designers presented their debut collections as newly appointed creative directors for some of the industry_s most influential houses. This tectonic shift in the creative landscape inevitably evoked a sense of a new beginning.

The promise of a new fashion era was palpable everywhere. However_ after four weeks_ a familiar picture emerged. The trends that gradually crystallised from the catwalks moved on familiar ground_ despite all the stylistic realignments.

Ten key trends for SS26 at a glance.

Featherlight

If there is one feathered dress from this Fashion Week that will remain in the collective fashion memory_ it is the one from Matthieu Blazy_s debut collection for Chanel. However_ the designer was neither the first nor the last to use the material.

The season was characterised by an abundance of texture and movement. Feathers played a significant role in this. Whether as part of waistcoats and headpieces at Ann Demeulemeester or as embellishments on skirts as chosen by Pierpaolo Piccioli for Balenciaga_ the feathery material proved to be exceptionally versatile.

Ruffle play

After years of clean lines_ fashion is rediscovering its softer side this season. Ruffles appeared everywhere_ not as a nostalgic gesture_ but as a deliberate break from the austerity of recent years. At Marques_ Almeida_ they were irregular and spontaneous. At Alberta Ferretti_ they were more delicate_ arranged in soft_ flowing layers that played with light and movement. Chloé translated the ruffle into a modern volume_ balancing sportiness with romance.

Sea of flowers

Floral patterns for spring have never been_ and never will be_ groundbreaking. Yet_ not a season goes by without the floral motif once again gracing the catwalks. Rabanne kicked off the floral parade with a look reminiscent of an 80s revival_ appearing as if it had stepped out of a colourful music video. Valentino_ in turn_ transported us to the 70s with a flowing metallic dress in shimmering green tones. Its floral pattern looked like a painting dipped in lamé.

In comparison_ Loewe opted for a more restrained approach. The close-fitting minidress_ adorned with small_ finely arranged blossoms_ looked as if the flowers had been painted with a delicate brushstroke.

Shades of yellow

After several seasons dominated by neutral tones and earthy hues_ colour has made a powerful return to the catwalks. Yellow_ in particular_ proved to be the colour of the moment_ present in a wide variety of shades.

At Miu Miu_ it appeared as a vibrant complement to sporty shapes and graphic patterns_ giving the colour an almost utilitarian severity. Alexander McQueen focused on the dramatic effect of yellow in voluminous_ floor-length gowns that dissolved the fabric into movement and light. Balenciaga translated the hue into sculptural forms and structured surfaces. Here_ yellow embodied less lightness and more of an almost architectural precision.

Fringe festival

At first glance_ the fringe trend is not so different from the aforementioned feather look. However_ texture played a central role in the overall aesthetic of the spring/summer 2026 season_ and fringes in all their variations were ubiquitous.

At Chanel_ the technique was showcased with tactile opulence in a golden fringed ensemble_ while Alexander McQueen gave the theme a rawer edge. Metallic threads hung loosely from a short top paired with jeans. Loewe presented arguably the most architectural version. Electric cobalt blue fringes emerged from a sculptural skirt_ paired with a voluminous jacket that anchored the look in modern objectivity.

A touch of Marie Antoinette

Last spring_ numerous brands began to reinterpret the pannier-style gowns of the 18th century_ featuring exaggerated hip volumes reminiscent of courtly silhouettes. This season_ the picture was less uniform. However_ opulent volume_ of the kind that would have delighted Marie Antoinette_ was widespread_ especially in dresses.

There_ the volume lent a lively dynamism to skirts and dresses. They came down the catwalk puffed up_ folded and with a buoyant movement. This was seen at Jonathan Anderson_s debut for Dior_s womenswear collection and also at Givenchy under the creative direction of Sarah Burton. Louis Vuitton presented a transparent combination of trousers so wide they could almost pass for a skirt. This was paired with a bodice and a cape with such voluminous shoulders that they rivalled the skirts in drama. Fittingly_ the show took place in the Musée du Louvre_ specifically in the rooms that once served as the summer residence of Anne of Austria_ Queen of France.

A field of lilac

On the colour wheel_ yellow and purple are opposites; for the spring/summer 2026 season_ they are competitors. The violet hue appeared in various gradations_ from cool lilac to rich purple. Chloé chose a soft lilac tone for a dress that fell in soft folds_ gathering around the hips and hem. Balenciaga showed a slimmer silhouette in a strong purple_ enlivened by draping at the hem. Moschino_ in turn_ combined the colour with playful details_ such as oversized flounces and an accentuated hip volume reminiscent of couture presentations.

Silhouette play

Designers are playing with silhouettes_ and the jacket_ in particular_ has been shortened by a few centimetres. On the catwalks_ it appeared in a cropped version that reveals the lower body while modernising the classic shape. Whether in the minimal execution at Chanel; the clear geometry at Max Mara; or the avant-garde creation at Alexander McQueen_ the cropped version brings a breath of fresh air to the classic suit look.

Dark lingerie looks

Similar to the 18th-century influence_ lingerie-inspired fashion is now a familiar sight on the catwalk. This season_ however_ it appears significantly darker and even more sensual.

At Tom Ford_ the slip dress became a deconstructed work of art. Transparent lace inserts met graphic lines and strong contrasts. Patou presented a playful take on the lingerie theme_ where the delicate bralette and floral miniskirt-tights combination was almost reminiscent of a classic pin-up silhouette. Jean Paul Gaultier took the theme to the extreme. A low-cut bodysuit with a sheer skirt was worn so low it was almost reminiscent of stockings.

Orange

It is not just yellow and purple sending bright signals for SS26; orange is too. The colour_ which has long oscillated between a warning signal and retro charm_ was impossible to miss this season.